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We have this old glass top patio table. The wife is gonna let me experiment and tile the table top. She's gonna allow me to pick up a cheap tile saw and figured on getting that .79-.89 1 ft. floor tile at Lowes, I guess it'd work for an outdoor patio table.
How would you do it?
Is this a metal framed table with clear glass top?
I'd remove the glass top and replace it with 1/2 inch or thicker backer board. Wonder Board is one brand that comes to mind but cement board is cement board, just go at lest 1/2 inch thick.
You want the tile to stop a healthy grout line width short on all sides. Assuming this is a rectangular table... the tile pattern needs to be about 1/2 inch less in width and length to allow for the grout along the outside edges.
Cut and dry fit the tile to your taste regarding the pattern. and then use a thinset to adhere/bed the tile. Choose a thinset that is flexible. recommended for laying tile on a flexible substrate (like over a wooden floor), and you are less likely to have problems.
Do you like the cement picnic tables that are topped with inset broken tile pieces in multiple colors? You can do that with your table as well if you like.
You can use a metal edging to surround and frame the table top. A thin angle iron is one way that would work. Miter or butt the ends is two ways to handle it. The sketch shows the two ways mentioned. Basically you edge the substrate (backer board, Wonder board, whatever cement board) with angle iron. The edges of the backer rest on the angle iron. The tile is fitted to within a grout line's width, of the angle iron. When you grout in the tile you also put grout between the angle iron and outer tile perimeter.
This gives a nice finished appearance and is pretty secure physically. You paint the angle after cutting (and welding?) and touch up any oops after grouting the tile.
This will be heavier than the original glass covered table so don't do it if the table is marginally constructed unless you can reinforce it
Consider placing the tile on the diagonal (diamond look) instead of rectilinearly. Consider different patterns, not just standard rows like little tin soldiers. I like the pattern where you use tiles of two sizes where the smaller pieces are 1/2 as long and wide as the larger ones.
Let us know how it turns out.
Sorry, couldn't get this onto the prev post...
This is the "pinwheel" pattern. I have it in my great room in 1x1 and 2x2 tile.
I recommend porcelain tile as it is moisture proof. It is essentially glass. It will not absorb moisture and pop apart in freezing weather as many tiles will.
Many tiles are NOT suitable for outdoor locations, underfoot or on a table. Seal the grout well but don't worry about the porcelain tile as it needs no sealer.
Pat
Thanks for all the input... It's a metal table and we'll ditch the glass top and do the backer board... New to this.. Just wanting to experiment and figued a table would be cheap and a great experience for learing how to tile. We have a couple areas in our home we wanna do eventually.
I forgot to mention that since the table will be RIGHT IN YOUR FACE that any deviation from straight grout lines are super obvious. So... I recommend you use the little "X" shaped spacer things at the intersections of the grout lines. They will help a lot getting precise placement and are removed after the thinset cures but before grouting.
Pat
An outdoor table presents bigger challenges than a typical indoor floor installation. Backer board works great, I've used it a lot and it provides a sturdy base for the tile. But between the backer board, tile and grout, that will be one heavy table compared to the original glass unit. Also, I would probably be more concerned about the grout for an outdoor installation. The reason I say this is that I did an outdoor countertop (18"x48") using some leftover porcelain 1" square floor tiles. It held up pretty well over a 5 yr or so period then the grout started to disintegrate, causing water to get in the cracks and the Michigan freeze-thaw cycle took over from there. I ended up buying a piece of granite to replace it and no worries since then. Not sure why the grout disintegrated but I'd check with the tile supplier to see if they have a grout for exterior use.
There is siliconized tile grout that is touted to be waterproof but I'd check with a tile expert before I pinned my hopes for longevity to it.
I'm no expert but... grout doesn't do much: 1. fills the variable void between tiles and 2. is acceptably aesthetic while filling that void.
There are colored caulks in a wide pallet of colors that are intended for use in sealing against water around sinks and counter tops. Check with the counter top folks at some big box or builders supply houses. They will probably NOT have a clue as to using it as a grout substitute but can at lest supply the stuff. The stuff I got was in squeeze tubes to be used by hand (sans caulking gun.)
I would think a good silicone caulk could be used in lieu of grout to avoid water ingress and the EVIL freeze thaw cycle. After all you will probably not be walking on (or dancing on) that table top.
Please post some pix as you progress.
Pat