can i make a 2500 ram a dually???for a big camper?

i need a little info on this,we are looking at big bigfoot 3000 series campers and really like the slide outs[can anybody recomend other camper brands???]we have a 2001 dodge 2500 4x4 diesel longbed 5spd with 57k miles and has been perfect for 10.5ft northland.but now we are interested in getting bigger and having no wood[rotting] in are next camper.i know all older ford duallys were built from a kits right??i would think[at some cost]you could do this to a dodge??any info on this project or a camper recomondation would help.we have rs9000's,airbags,camper springs on our 01 2500 ram 4x4 and now we know we need a dually.bws

You'll need a full floating axle to put dual wheels on. And the brakes are probably too small for the heavier load.

Thats a nice camper. I'm envious. We have a Bigfoot 9.5 ft. 1500 series on a 96 dodge diesel 2500. Driving I really wouldn't want more back there. Not because of total weigh but the way it's distributed.

I'd suggest putting in a complete dually rear axle and upgrade the front brakes to the 3500 series.

I think the 96- 2500 series has a Dana 80 rear end housing and gears but Dana 70 wheel bearings. It does have a full floating axle.

Check on the TDR website as they do talk about such things there and also talk to your sevice manager.

I've always though about a tag set of wheels but that's just me dreamin.

Egon

I worked at a shop where we did a few dually conversions. There are plenty of folks out there who claim to have done them, but simply installing dually adapters and fenders on your truck isn't the same thing at all. There are frequently signifigant and subtle differences between a SRW and DRW truck.

Because your truck is fairly new the process will be easier. The first thing you will want to do is shop for a similar 3500 DRW truck. Why? Because in many cases its more economically logical to simply move to a different truck. Even if the dollars point toward converting your truck, you need to establish a reasonable budget for the conversion. It would be foolish to invest so much in your 2500 that it's now "worth" more than a similar 3500. I've seen it happen - then you're either stuck with it or you take a loss to sell it. (And yes - even if you intend to keep this truck forever, sometime things change).

Second, you want to take some time and investigate the basic differences between your 2500 and a 3500. In most cases the frames are the same between a 3/4 and 1 ton, but not always. This can be found either in sales info, by checking part numbers either at the dealer or through a junkyard (they use special crossreference catalogs which will show if the parts are compatible), or by contacting the manufacturer. If the frames are the same you can move to the next step, if not you need to decide if you want to continue the conversion or not. The reality is that if the frames are different, no amount of suspension upgrade will make your truck as safe or capable as a 3500.

Third you need to find a shop competent to perform the conversion. There are many, but your corner garage is probably not the place. Ask around for references, and look for a shop that has experience in driveline, suspension, and chassis modification. Welding capabilities are a must, fabrication experience is beneficial, and alignment equipment is nice, but not a requirement (we used to sublet our alignments to an excellent shop).

Fouth, locate and aquire the needed parts. The easiest and least expensive method is to find a donor 3500 DRW truck with most of what you need. The second option is to locate two or more trucks in salvage yards and aquire the components from several sources. The last choice is to buy new - in most cases this is so cost prohibitive as to not even be considered.
In your case you will need:
Complete rear axle assembly including brakes
Complete front axle assembly including brakes - preferably from the same truck, but if not MUST match both ratio and be from a DRW (hubs can be converted from SRW to DRW, but in most cases the labor required is more than the cost of a complete axle assembly. On my 2001 Ford Superduty DRW, however, the front axle assy is a SRW unit with bolt on adapters. You should check with your salvage yard to be sure)
Complete front and rear leaf spring assemblies including hangers and any axle spacer blocks
All front and rear suspension components - control arms, stabilizer bars, brackets, mounts, etc. Some of these may be the same, but be SURE before you decide you dont need a component. The stabilizer bars are a definite must.
Front and rear driveshafts including center support frame mounts and spacers if different from your truck (We made driveshafts on one conversion, but only because there were none available)
Transfer case, linkage and/or electrical components if different from your truck
Master cylinder/Brake booster/proportioning valve (be aware that there may/may not be differences here as well, and be sure to consider possible differences in the ABS systems between the two trucks)
Wheels and tires
Fender extensions and related body supports/hardware. Its usually easier to simply install the factory DRW bed complete because the beds must be cut to allow clearance for the inner wheel/tire.
The usual multitude of small brackets, hardware and nitpicks needed for any project.

Keep in mind that when you are done, even if your truck is now physically identical to a 3500, as far as DMV and potential buyers are concerned its still a 2500. If you have receipts for everything it is possible to uprate the GVWR, but this also usually requires a letter from the manufacturer indicating that your modifications are sufficient for the higher rating.

In most cases your leftover axles, suspension, bodywork, etc can be sold to offset the cost of the upgrade - be sure to estimate this and include it in your original calculation.


Hmmmmmmmmmmmm..........
I think I covered most of it.

As you can see, doing it right can be costly and time consuming. I was involved in three, all of which turned out nice. I was also involved in 2 others that we didn't do because the cost was prohibitive as compared to simply replacing the truck.

Good luck to you

Gregg

Very well explained, Gregg. I've seen some good conversions and I've seen some bad ones, but even with the good ones, I think you're nearly always ahead to simply trade trucks to get what you want. About 3 years ago, I helped my brother convert a 1989 3/4 ton Chevy Suburban with a 454 engine to a dually to pull a 34' travel trailer. It actually turned out pretty good, but he didn't keep it long. However, he did recover his cost, which surprised me.