How to dry out the garden
My garden spot is too wet. I don't have a better place for it, so I need to just fix this spot. The ground is clay, but this spot has been used for a garden for about 5 years, so it's turning into good topsoil. I'm thinking of scraping off the top soil and putting in some drain tile. Then, building it up with sand and putting the topsoil back on. Will this work or should I fill with something else?
Re: How to dry out the garden
Have you thought about going to the double dig, raised bed system?
Re: How to dry out the garden
Well if you say its to wet than I guess its to wet but,is it to wet all year?I mean most areas are pretty wet in the spring,than in the summer you are wishing for rain.If you have raised a garden there for the past 5 years,if you say its to wet all year than it is,if somebody else has,than maybe in the summer it won't be.As far as turning a swampy area into not a swampy area,well that could be a real big job.If its a drainage problem,maybe it wouldn't be to hard to make some ditches so water wouldn't drain into that area so much,but if its just swampy than depending on what size garden you want, maybe raised beds? RICHARD GAUTHIER
Re: How to dry out the garden
The raised bed system, with drain tiles underneath should work. I've grown in raised beds several times. I think for some things it's actually easier than regular gardening.
Steve
Re: How to dry out the garden
Wet can be good! I think my beans are growing so fast in an attempt to reach the air and avoid drowning! [img]/forums/images/icons/confused.gif[/img]
Chuck
Re: How to dry out the garden
What is the double dig, raised bed system?
I have managed to raise a garden there, but some years are wetter than others, so some years it works out, but other years it doesn't. For example, I've had seeds rot out in the ground. So, I just have to plant later, when it dries out. We're past any danger of frost, so I'd like to get the stuff in as early as possible so I can have the fresh vegetables as soon as possible.
For example, last year it was so wet I couldn't even get on it to till it up until the last weekend of May, but the year before I was able to till it in early May. This year, I haven't been able to get on it yet and it doesn't look like I will for a while. Even after I can get it tilled and some things planted, it's not uncommon for a wet June to come along and I have things rotting out in the mud. I've had to water it, but that's usually not until mid July or if we get week or so of no rain before that (which is rare).
The area is about 30' X 30'. I usually grow tomatoes, green peppers, cilantro, cucumbers, pumpkins, gourds, and sometimes watermelons. I'd do more, but just don't have time to keep up with it.
Re: How to dry out the garden
Well,a garden that sized is certainly a candadate for a raised up bed.A raised bed is just that,you need a form of somesort to hold the dirt in above the ground level.You could dig out the top soil where the form will go,build your form out of lands scape timbers or simular stuff,I'd use pressure treated but some people will tell you that will get in the vegitables,[arsenic,copper],and get some real good and rich top soil and fill it up.A raised bed can also be used without the form,its just that you will have to probably do it every year after you till,which in a garden your size,might be the best way. RICHARD GAUTHIER
Re: How to dry out the garden
OK. I don't like the idea of the forms though, since I won't be able to till it with the tractor and 5' tiller. I don't have the time to do it with the 22" tiller, plus the first time over is pretty bouncy with that thing. I usually till it once, then wait a few days and till it again before I plant. With the tractor and 5' tiller, that's a quick job.
Re: How to dry out the garden
You basically build a frame, I like mine about 3' x 6 or 7' and maybe 8" to 12" tall. Then dig out (turn over) the ground inside the frame. Then fill the frame with more dirt. I scoop the top soil from between frames, since this area is a walkway and grows nothing. You then have a raised bed that has say 16" of loose soil inside. (The soil contained by the frame and the soil underneath.) And, you have eliminated all weeding in the walking paths around the beds.
When I planted in raised beds, I made little cardboard cutouts and used them as spacers for planting seeds. Since you are planting in a confined bedspace, there is no reason to plant in rows. The spacers allowed me to completely fill the available bed area without over crowding.
Some people keep the same frames year after year. Others remove the frames each fall and let the soil settle. I've even gardened without building frames. It's just a little harder to keep the top soil frrom washing.
Your tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers should love it. I don't know about the rest of the stuff, because I've never grown cilantro; and pumpkins, etc. usually get planted in with the corn. I don't like raised beds for corn, since I didn't have real good luck with it.
Steve
Re: How to dry out the garden
Danny,
A buddy of mine has raised beds, mainly because he had to bring in garden soil because his was pretty poor. He happened to have lots of 2x10 cedar which he used for the borders. He has beds about 4 feet wide so he can reach the center from both sides, and mulches the paths between. While I am waiting for my garden to dry enough so I can weed around some of the plants, he just walks along the paths and plucks out the weeds, keeping his shoes nice and clean. If you didn't want to buy dirt, I suppose you could scrape off your top soil and lay down a layer of sand. Then build your forms and fill with your saved dirt. I've wanted to make some raised beds myself, but didn't have a ready source of cheap, safe, and long lasting edging. Too bad the recycled plastic boards are so expensive. One of the garden catalogs I get sells kits of those for small raised beds, and they claim really good yields for things like potatoes. They'd be darn expensive potatoes though, with those kits.
Chuck