Sharpening chainsaw chains?

I am looking for an inexpensive way to sharpen my chainsaw chains. It is inconvenient to keep taking chains to the shop. I don't think I can justify a a $300 bench sharpener, but I see some under $50. How good are they? What do yall recommend? I have a small Stihl and a BIG Poulan. I only use them about once a month, but the wood I cut is hardwood. Plus, I *know* I abuse the chains, because when I cut, I cut very close to the ground which dulls them quickly. I would rather dull the chainsaw chains rather than hit the stump later with the shredder [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img]

BTW: where do yall buy your chains from? I have thought about buying a spool, but that is a big chunk of money all at once....

thanks

You can sharpen them yourself by hand and when they get really bad take them to a shop. Touching up the chains frequently makes it much easier to keep them sharp.

I buy chains at a local shop.

Egon [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] We burned wood to heat our ranch house for years and years so I speak from experience... [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] Using a 12-volt saw sharpener that clipped onto the battery of the pickup or the tractor was the best labor saver SINCE the tractor. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] You saw for a while and the VERY MINUTE that the teeth seem dull, STOP and go over them with the sharpener. You get that down time back in a jiffy by the extra speed at which the blade cuts. It doesn't take much to get the edge back. I have NO IDEA where my dad got the hand-held toothpaste tube-sized tool; and it was subsequently stolen after his death in '94. I'm sure that a web site or a saw shop could find you such a thing. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

I agree with Egon. I use a chainsaw file on mine every time I refill the gas tank. Just stroke the saw across each tooth a couple of times. Takes just a couple of minutes with the chain still on the saw. Most important thing is to use a good relatively new file. When the file loses its "bite", replace it. It's amazing the difference when cutting with a sharp chain and a dull one.

As for chains, I just get it from the local big box store for my Poulan. I'm looking at buying a Stihl 361 with a 20" bar and will get parts from the dealer where I buy it.

BTW. was looking at Stihl saws over the weekend at the local dealer and he mentioned that he used to carry Husky. They came in and wanted him to carry the whole line (high-end and low-end) or they would pull the product. They were moving into big-box stores. He said go ahead, pull the product. Guess what? Big-box stores are NOT service centers. Where does the customer go for service? Duh. Now Husky is back asking him to restock their product AND service parts. No way, he said.

They are a pretty common item in most stores catering to chainsaws. A dremel tool will also work. [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Egon [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Funny you mentioned that about the Big Box stores. I *always* take my Stihl to the store I bought it from for service. But, I am struggling finding a shop to take the Poulan to. A couple shops won't touch it.
I saw a little battery operated sharpener (cigarette lighter) at the Norther Tool website. I think I may take a closer look at that one.

I have been cutting down juniper trees on our property for 14 years, for what it is worth.

I am mirroring the others............ I keep a hand file to touch up the teeth while cutting wood. Last year I bought a decent 110v sharpener ($80) to give the chain a good sharpening when it needed it. But, the car battery ones work good, too.

Harbor freight has a benchtop grinder that works amazing for sharpening chains. I think it's about $30. Use the dremel or the file in the field but reset the teeth back at the shop with this and you'll be a happy camper.

The Northern tool sharpener is similar to the HF version but costs more BUT is rated much higher by users I personally trust (Gemini on the TBN sister site and others) who have both.

There is also a 12VDC operated Dremel-like sharpener (Oregon brand?) for use when you are at your vehicle.

Hand stroking each tooth a few times each fill up is a good idea. Another thing many folks do not do which the knowledgeable pros do is:

Take your bar off and turn it over once per days use. It is easy and distributes the wear. Never buy a bar that doesn't have greasable "nose wheel" and grease it with the little "hypodermic" style greaser every fill up.

If you "touch up" your chain every fill up you may not need to sharpen it with a power sharpener for every big session and chains will last longer.

I am NOT a chainsaw expert but I have 2 Mac Eager Beavers (16 inch), an 18 inch 350 Husky, and a 32 inch bar Husky with an engine like a small dirt bike (you know you are pulling something starting it.) I do some logging. I think it is prudent to carry a spare chain (sharpened) in your carry case. You will be surprised how many times you opt to put it on. Stuff happens!

Pat

Stihl doesn't make a bar that has a hole for greasing the tip. They are all sealed bearings that never need greasing.

My Stihl 028 Farm Boss has a roller nose with a grease hole. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

Gary, do you realize you have refuted 100% of BlackOak's posts? You're brutal!

Both of my Macs and both of the Husky brand that I have have a grease hole for servicing the roller tip.

If the sealed bearings were good enough to outlast the bar and didn't cost more than those with grease holes I guess I would be happy to have that kind but I'm not convinced they meet that requirement but are just convenient, no brainer equipment.

Both sealed and not sealed are superior to the ones with no bearing at the tip.

Pat

Well, my saw is a few years old, maybe 15-18? Perhaps they no longer make such a bar?

My newest saw is a 350 Husqvqarna and it is only a year old. My macs are about 6 and 12 years old. I have a larger Husqvarna with a 32 inch bar and an engine like a small dirt bike. I don't know how old it is as I bought it used.

A friend has a Poulan which is nearly new and has grease holes and another has a Sears that is about 2 years old and has grease holes.

I wonder what brands/models have sealed bearings...

Pat

Does your bar have a Stihl logo on it????? As far as greasing the tip in bars with the grease hole, Some do, some don't. I really think the bar oiler will provide enough lube for the sprocket tip.

Well... the bar oil lubes the contact between the chain and teeth in the sprocket BUT does not lube the bearing at the center of the sprocket so very well which is why there is a grease hole.

Pat

Just thought I'd revitalize this old thread.

I finally started using the HF chainsaw chain sharpener I have had for a while. It is a pretty flimsy mostly plastic contraption that requires light handed treatment but when used carefully it seems to do a pretty good job. The sharpening goes pretty fast if you ignore the safety warning to shut the unit down and restart after moving the chain to the next cutter. That must have been included for liability purposes as I ignore it and see no danger to anyone at all aware of what they are doing.

Of course I should note I am typing this with 9 fingers as one is wrapped in gauze to keep the area with 8 stitches clean. New blade in the utility knife this morning and a fraction of a second of imperfect caution led to 3 hours in emergency (mostly waiting).

Pat

ouch! Of course, most times when I injure myself with tools, I usually only notice something is wrong when I see the blood on whatever I'm working on. (It's especially frustrating when working with "unstained" wood [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] ) Never had to get stitches and I usually let the blood flow pretty well to flush out the wound. Wife (an RN) always asks about the last tetanus shot I had. But who can remember stuff like that, so I say "oh, couple of years ago." So far so good. One of these years, she'll catch on. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] In your case, the utility knife was probably as clean as the needle they used to suture you up.

Them utility knives have got more folks than we realize! [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img]

Egon

Funny thing but the only pain worthy of the term from the original incident through right now was the shots they put into the wound to numb it prior to suturing. I felt virtually nothing when I made the cut or after.

Shortly before slicing myself I had cleaned up a dried blood drop on the floor from an earlier work session. I don't mind investing a little blood, sweat, and tears into a worthy project but perhaps should cut back a bit on the blood.

Got the project finished satisfactorily so that is a little consolation. Finishing the unloading of my dump trailer of the 8000 lbs plus load of cattle feed one 5 gal bucket at a time took longer working with one hand. Luckily I only had about 150 gal left to unload.

Pat

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cattle feed one 5 gal bucket at a time

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That Heavy exercise needs some mechanical implementation replacement.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KVXhsuvGug

Egon [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]