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The best 10\" table saw blade...
What is the best 10" table saw blade <font color="blue">for the money? </font color>
Anyone ever used Lee Valley's blades?
Freud supposedly has a blade that cuts so smooth you don't need a jointer. How much is this blade? Anyone ever used one?
I don't have the $140 for a Forrest blade or the $400 for a jointer right now. I'm cheap.... [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
i have the Forrestt Woodworker II and think it's a good blade. That said, I've got a CMT blade that's pretty good too. And I don't recall the price but I think it was considerably cheaper.
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Forrest is real nice. I have one of their blades and it does a great job. I also used to use Black & Decker Piranha blades and thought they did OK for the money. Not as smooth as the Forrest, but they cut OK. I usually got 3-4 sharpenings out of them before I pitched them.
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
I've tried em all. Without a doubt the Forrest Woodworker II is tops. Jesada has a very good blade for half that price. Ditto for CMT. Lee Valley was okay -- better than Freud -- but nothing to write home about.
If you don't have the $ for a Forrest, check out the Jesada.
Pete
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
"If you don't have the $ for a Forrest, check out the Jesada."
Who carries the Jesada?
Looks like i'm not gonna get a decent "cheaper" blade, huh? Looks like you guys talked me into the Forrest.
I just thought $110.00 + was high for a saw blade. I'll be sawing hard maple, ebony, rosewood, walnut and mahogany (musical instruments).
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
Jesada carries the Jesada. Excellent customer service. And they usually have some pretty good deals on their Webpage.
Pete
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Pete, I just tried, and their web page is down.
Are there any retail stores that carry Jesada items?
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With the Forrest balde on a decent saw you'll not have to do any snading of glue joints. And they shouldn't be sanded anyway.
You can make a cut with the Forrest balde, then slide the two pieces back together and you can barely see the cut. Now that assumes the saw is properly setup and all.
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I just tried and got thru just fine. They changed ownership since last time I bought from them. Carlo, the former owner, was a really great guy! With my proofreading past, I once circled all the typos in his catalog for fun and sent it to him. He sent me a 7 piece roundover router bit set in return -- no charge! Not sure who owns the company now. I see their products in a couple of local woodworking stores, and there are usually some on Amazon.com.
Pete
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
I've been very happy with Systematic blades - they have a glue-joint rip 55 tooth carbide blade that has done a great job for me on both oak and walnut. Just don't use a thin-kerf blade and expect a fine finished edge. The thinner blades will vibrate a bit and give a rougher cut (but they do need less saw power). The newer teflon coated blades also resist pitch buildup.
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"If you don't have the $ for a Forrest, check out the Jesada."
I have both and agree. Money spent on a cheap blade soon cost me more in aggravation than I want to spend again.
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Gary, Pete and Chris....
Thanks for the input.
Next weekend (March 12 to 14), is the Charlotte Woodworking Show. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] I'll be like a kid in a candy store!
I know where I'll be on Saturday! [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
I hope one of the vendors has a good deal on a ripping/glue line saw blade. If not, I'll be buying one anyway...
I've got a Freud on my 10" miter saw and it does great.
I've got a Freud combination blade (TKR906) on my cheap tablesaw and it does great cross-cutting but not so good ripping (it wants to bog down). Freud blades seem to be good blades, but I haven't used any other brands to compare them with. They average $30 - $75.
Since I'm working on 6 projects at one time (cabinets, shelves, etc.), I needed a combo blade. It's a PITA to keep changing blades, but I guess I've got to do it!
If I had a 24" miter saw [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img] , then I could leave the new rip blade on my table saw!!! [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
The "woodworking show" was in St. Louis this weekend just past. The Forrest blades were going for under $100.
You probably are already aware of this, but keeping pitch and gum cleaned off the blade makes any blade work better and use less energy cutting. At the show there were some fellows selling T-9 Boe Lube, A gum remover, and a rust remover. All the products seemed to work well. There was a write up on some of these produts in Wood Magazine recently.
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Iv'e used oven cleaner to get the crud off saw blades.
Attached a report on saw blade tests.
Egon
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
I'm happy to see the Forrest is the only one rated Excellant for both rip and cross cuts.
I've used a water based pitch remover that I had bought at Woodcraft. It was pink, and if I recall was to be diluted with water for use.
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We always used kerosene to clean pitch from blades and knives.
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I have Forrest WWII, it is the best. But I use Oldham 24 for rough ripping. I also like the Oldham Signature woodworking blade.
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Since the main topic of business is handled and while you are still gathered together, let me ask this: What is a good 10 inch blade for ripping lumber. I will be planing it later and only need a rough cut but want to maximize the saws capability if it doesn't cost more for the recommended blade than I paid for the saw new with blade.
It is a 10 inch Makita table saw (on a stand) mostly plastic except for lightweight saw table and cost over 3 times what the saw it is replacing cost.
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
I have a Freud LU87 thin-kerf rip blade that just tears through 8/4 and 12/4 maple and oak. You can really tell the difference between a thin-kerf and a regular-kerf blade.
The thin kerf really moves through the wood, but does have a tendency to vibrate, and occasionally follows the grain a bit in oak. This isn't a big problem, but does cause a few more blade marks in the wood. This is easy to fix if you have a jointer to finish up the edges.
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
DocHeb, Thanks for the recommendation. I do have a jointer so I can touch up the edges OK. As of yesterday I have a DeWalt 12 1/2 inch thickness plane. Just chomping at the bit for my rough sawn eastern red cedar to dry enough to work well.
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
That would be the planner of my choice Pat. I have a delta 12 in. without the snipe control feature.
Have you got the planner set up so there will be longer infeed and outfeed support for those long heavy pieces that are sure to be in your future.
Egon
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
Egon, This is the lesser featured and priced of the DeWalt 12 1/2 inch planes. You know how it is when you do business with a place and they give you a ballpoint pen or a hat with their name and logo on it? Well, the delivery truck from my materials supplier drove out to the building site Friday afternoon to deliver a handfull of little metal thingies that brace between some big wood things in my house and brought along a NIB DeWalt thickness plane with an invoice/receipt for $0.00 so the warranty would be covered. It was a thank you for the volume of business I had given them. The guy who runs the contractor desk knew I was trying to put them out of business [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img] , i.e. make some lumber from local logs so he had mentioned earlier that his dad had one of these planes and liked it so he thought he should get me one as a thanks for the volume of business.
I know wheere the $ to buy it originated but anyway you analyze it, it is better than not getting it.
I ran a "chunk" of eastern red cedar (roughsawn to about 3"x5"x5') that has been drying for about 2 weeks. I ran it through a couple times on all 4 sides. Probably get better results with experience in setup and with dryer wood. That cedar (juniper?) is going to be very pretty when planed and clear coated with urethane. Probably satin finish urethane rather than gloss. What do you think?
It makes neat shavings, lots of them. I will be happy to get it set up securely with good infeed and outfeed support. The test was with it perched on a sloping cardboard box but my "helper" was with me and her assitance made it possible to do the test with the plane just floating precariously. You know how it is on "Christmas morning", us kids can't wait and have to run the electric train NOW!
Armed with DocHeb's ripping blade recommendation for the table saw I will be ready to turn the pile of logs (currently in sliced up lengthwise slabs) into finished dimensional lumber, planed smooth on three sides. This will trim out the new sunporch/garden room.
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
It makes neat shavings, lots of them.
[/ QUOTE ]
See you take the cedar shavings and use them for beding for hamsters. You use the used hamster beding and dropping for fertilizer on the cedar trees. Then you use the cedar trees to make more shavings for the hamsters. Close to perpetual motion, eh! OK you need to add energy in the form of hamster food and water. Hey, will hamsters eat poison ivy?
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
Pat:
Thats still a nice planner. Have you used one before? If not I can make a whole list of things not to do.
Egon
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
Gary, At some point don't I get to have charcoaled hamsters on a stick?
Well, I did my hero thing and repaired the guys band mill sufficiently such that it starts and runs and when it starts sputtering you kust twink (technical maint term) the 5 pin connector on the back of the ignition switch. He needs a new ignition switch, too much corrosion from sitting out in the weather.
To "properly test" the mill I, of course, had to whack off a couple slabs from the log we had left slaying on the bed. It works. My first time at the controls. Not too complicated.
I ripped one of the slabs to remove the edges where thte bark was. Sure wish I had DocHeb's recommended ripping blade on my table saw already. Turns out that there are little white fat grubs living in the cedar within an inch or so of the bark. They didn't seem to hurt the plane (cooling and lubrication?) as much as the plane hurt them. [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
I hope dry cedar will plane better than fresh cut.
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
Uhoh.... Your getting sucked in... I understand making lumber is very addictive... Forestry Forum
It's too late for me but you can still be saved!! [img]/forums/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]
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Yeah, you can BBQ them once in a while. But don't get greedy otherwise you'll cut down on the fertilizer production.
And I'd bet that hamsters don't taste anything like ham! What's with that. I'll bet they taste like chicken.
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
Pat, for ripping, I've narrowed my choices to 3:
Freud LU87 about $48.
Freud TK206 about $25.
Jesada 110-240 about $58.
All are 10", 24 teeth, carbide.
Whichever vendor has either of the three for the best price at this coming weekend's Woodworking show will get my $$$$.
For a combo blade, I think I'm going to spend the $100 on a Forrest.
My saw is a small one like yours.
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ScottAR, I appreciate your concern but you are to late. I was infected decades ago and have just been in partial remission for nearly three years but even then remained a carrier. Now it seems to be flaring up again! [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
I am chomping at the bit to get my jointer, radial arm saw etc out of the shipping container they made the last move in and get them to work in my new shop which is still a bit NOT READY yet.
I recently joined that "other" support group Forestry Forum.
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
Gary, Like quail, it will probably take 3-4 to make a decent sized entre. I guess you could use them for shishkabobs with appropriate veggies in between and or you could stuff them and lace or tie them closed to hold it in.
I can visualize a small army of them in marching formation in a large roasting pan or serving tray on a large bed of rice with bright garni as their unit colors. For an added touch (by the touched) array them with their little heads cocked smartly to the right and the single largest specimen out front with his right foreleg cocked up to his brow as if rendering a salute during "EYES RIGHT" on the parade field.
...ho ho he he to a nice place where the sun is always shining and the...
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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Hey Fivestring, I think you have a plan! I was thinking rather than over working my cute little Makita, I might keep my eyes open for a saw that is larger more powerful, albeit probably much more crude and with more runout/blade wobble to use for rough ripping of rough sawn slabs of logs. It could pay in the long run if I can find one for a decent $.
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
DocHeb, Not a fit to my rough ripping requirement but of interest otherwise is the freud thin kerf crosscut with 50-60 percent larger teeth designed for more sharpenings and slots with vibration dampening polymer to reduce the vibration that bedevils other really thin kerf blades. www.freudtools.com
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
Yeah, I bought one of Freud's 12" LU85 Precision Cutoff Blade with 96 teeth for my Dewalt Miter Saw. It isn't a thin kerf, but does have those laser cuts that are pretty neat. They do seem to take away some of the vibration, and definitely decrease the "ringing" you get with some blades. Boy, even after two years it still glides through maple and oak. After growing up with my dad's Craftsman saws and tools, switching to Delta, Freud, etc makes such an incredible difference. In the past I would work with +/- 1/16" tolerances. Now I cut stuff and I'm splitting 32nds! Really makes it more fun when things fit together well.
I mounted my Miter Box up high on the wall so I can line up the blade without leaning over.
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
DocHeb, A picture IS worth a thousand words but may give rise to a thousand questions! Smart move with the mounting height of the miter saw. I may try some of that. I find conventional workbench heights to be a pain... in the back. I'm not really THAT tall (only 6'2") but all the leaning over gets to me.
The jointer looks familliar, what brand? Is it on wheels so you can move it away from the wall and wall mounted stuff when you want to "lean" the fence? What size "dust collector" do you have and how many of these large diameter flex hoses will it handle at once? I think I can see a "blast gate" in-line with he miter saw.
I have read adds for blast gates that make all sort of claims about having to be made of "special" materials to take the rough service of handling chips. I had thought that they were pretty simple and that it would be easy to build my own. Except for not leaking excessively, open or closed, what criteria are there that are hard to meet?
I'm a newbie at this dust collection system layout as previously I have only used a shop vac to a single tool at a time. I am just begining to consider the layout of the dust collection system. My mind wanders between overhead ductwork to a peripheral system with ducts ringing the walls or some combination thereof. One drawback I could think of might be the difficulty of getting the largest/heavy chips to flow upward 10 ft and end up having to open a lower flexiduct loop to clear out stuff.
My other "problem" is layout of the shop in general. Standing in the shop and turning around 360 degrees you have a choice of 6 doors to exit the area, plus one rollup garage door. I have to maintain certain passage ways for transiting the shop. With the rollup door taking such a big chunk of wall, I am thinking that whatever tools or benches get put in front of that door will be on wheels to facilitate those times when I want to bring something into the shop through the rollup.
Maybe I should "publish" the shop floorplan along with an equipment list and have a contest for a layout and organization. I'm finding that what I thought was a generously proportioned shop is NONE TOO BIG when you consider all the STUFF that has to go in it and the activities it has to support. Luckily I have a good sized shed adjacent with conecting doors. I hope to put the dust collection system in the shed and weather permitting open the rollup door and expand shop operations out into the shed.
The shop is essentially 24x36 (not a simple rectangle) and the shed is 21x48, sharing 24 ft of common wall with the rollup door connecting them. The shed has to house the Kubota and my implement colection. I will build dollies for all the implements so accessing the "right" one from a close packed grouping will not be too bad. This way I might save enough floor space to leave one of the 4 each 21x12 ft bays open for expansion from the shop.
What are your thoughts?
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
"What are your thoughts?"
My thoughts are that I want a shop the size of your shop!!!! [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
If I had a shop (spousal avoidance center)that size, I'd be in there too much! I wouldn't want to leave it!
Mine is currently 12x12. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img]
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Gary; I've got the same problems. Here are some pictures of my huge work area.
Egon
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Fivestring: One "helpful aid" for table saw vibration is to replace the potted pulley's with cast iron machined pulley's. They take a bunch of vibration out of the saw and saw blade. In addition, getting the PowerTwist V-belt for those pulley's takes even more vibration out of the blade. I blamed the blade for a long time, and tried a bunch of them, most mentioned in this thread. Not until I replaced the pulley's and belt on my 10" contractor table saw did I get a good, smooth cut. About a $60 upgrade.
DocHeb
What is the height from the floor that you have your cut-off miter saw set at? I plan to incorporate that idea (thanks to your idea) into my new shop (20' bench on one wall with DeWalt planer built into the bench center in a "cupboard" like a sliding drawer - just open, slide out, use at the lower level, and slide it back in out of the way).
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Re: The best 10\" table saw blade...
Pat, here is a good site with lots of dust collection info.
Bill's Cyclone Dust Collection Research