Most of the top soil out there is very poor. Best bet? Get compost instaed. Put down as much as you can, and stand back and let the micro ogenisms, and worms do the work. You will have the best lawn around.
Stephen - I agree with Paul. The "topsoil" my neighbor just got delivered for his flower beds was laughable. His flower beds are now weed beds.
A good compost would be best. I have excellent composted <font color="brown">manure </font color> trucked in from an "organic" farm($15/yd 10yds+). www.tuthillfarms.com/ is where I get it for those of you in S.E. MI. There is also some good general info on compost(ing) at the web site. Yard waste compost would work too just make sure it isn't real "twiggy." Check with local landscape supply places or waste removal companies for availability. Make sure you aerate the yard, too.
I topdressed my front lawn 2 weeks ago. Anywhere between 1-3" cover. Watered it a couple times. Put down some 12-12-12 fertilizer. The existing grass has grown up thru the thin areas and the thicker areas(depressions) will grow with the overseeding of the whole yard to be done this weekend.
Whatever you get/use....at a minimum use 50-50 peat/topsoil mix.... The more organic material the better the results. Chuck
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm anxiously awaiting the results of my soil test, to see how bad it is. Most of the lawn seems to be doing pretty well considering I didn't use any fertilizer or weed control this summer + the drought. (Figured I should see what the baseline was b4 formulating a lawn care plan).
But the spot in question didn't grow a thing all summer long.
<font color="red">Put down some 12-12-12 fertilizer </font color>
NOOOO!!!!! Don't kill all the beasteys in the compost. [sorry, I got a thing about cems.] Some nice alfa pellets for fert, and some corn glutten in the spring to stop the weeds, and your set.
Sorry just a thing with me. Nothing personal. Some people seem to use WAY to much cem ferts. This, after a wile will tend to kill all the mirco organisms in the soil. Then the plants are left needing more, and more ferts to keep living. Kind of like people just living on vitamins, and no real food. Sometimes you just want a stake.[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]Now don't get me wrong, I am not one of those milatet tree huggers, just want to keep the land a little healther. And agen, I did not want to affend anyone. If I did, I'm sorry. [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img]
Paul - No offense taken. I was just a little confused about your statement. I didn't think I had done anything to "kill" eveything in the soil.
I have a good understanding of the vicious cycle that can be created by the overuse of fetilizers. I only apply once a year and sparingly at that. It blows my mind when someone mentions their "lawn program" is 4, 5..7,8 applications of some mysterious products by the guys in the rubber boots.
I'm an avid reader and disciple of Jerry Baker and my lawn care product cabinet includes plenty of dishsoap, mouthwash, tobacco, cola etc., etc. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
I just found a local place to get the corn gluten and that is on the list to try next spring. Chuck
<font color="red">It blows my mind when someone mentions their "lawn program" is 4, 5..7,8 applications of some mysterious products by the guys in the rubber boots.
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Thats what I was talking about. If they have to were rubber boots, I don't want kids, or dogs playing on it. I guess My outlook is changing now that I have a kid. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
Call Jeff Knowles in N Hampton for compost $10yd unscreened (but its pretty clean) 603-964-1491 and he can deliver 8-10 yds. It does grow grass well though you will need to treat it for crab grass as well.
Another source is Dick Wollmar at Moor Farm 964-6793 for organic compost with seaweed and manure and untreated grass clippings. This is $$ though $30/yd.
We used some of the stuff from Jeff Knowles in the gardens this summer, and my wife is weeding grass constantly - just an FYI.
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