<font color="blue">Uh, I never bevel crown, I just cut it upside down like it would be on the wall... Then again, I never miter the inside corners anyway... </font color>
Thus the handy dandy little clamp that Dewalt sells so they can make even more money off the "gotta have the gadgetitis" sufferers like me. The standard quick draw clamp they sell, was too high off the saw base to engage the crown molding when you put it how it would be on the wall and hold it steady for the cut.
Do you cope the inside corners? I tried that, but was unsuccessful. Thats when I gave up on the Home Depot's Home improvement 123 book. I am a mechanical engineer & I couldn't translate from their description in the book to the wood. I have since found better explanations on how to cope the crown molding. Might give it a shot next time.
The mitre saw did a pretty darn good job of the inside corners that I may stick with that method.
I have always mitered inside corners of crown, but my work was always right under my nose on a workbench (running crown on mantels, or front entrance features), with the miterbox right there, too.
I have never put up crown in a room; I can see how coping inside corners would save some time there, though.
The problems with molding in a room are that the corners are never square. The mud in the corners of the drywall makes it uneven everytime. You make an inside miter that slopes with the trim that it's gonna butt up against. (takes a little practice and lots of staring to get it right sometimes)
Next, you follow along the imaginary line between the face of the trim and the inside miter with the coping saw. The magic line is easier to follow if the trim is preprimed. The mating piece just gets chopped off square. Make your various pieces so that one end is square and one end is coped; it's much easier to fit one end at a time.
After ya do a few, the joint is super tight and little paint prep is needed. Clear as mud?
Forgot to add... Baseboard inside corners are the same way and much easier to learn on since there's no compound angles to deal with. So, put the baseboard on first if you can. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
I wouldn't pull the base to install the hardwood floors at all. When we do it the base stays and you will be adding oak shoe or quarter round molding to cover the gap that is needed for expansion. If you look at hardwood floors they almost always have a shoe molding and, at least to me, don't look right without.
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