Stanley also makes a pint sized 7" model of the flat bar. Might have to give that a try.
Gee honey, I'd love to redo the rooms, but we need to buy 14 new crowbars [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
<font color="blue"> Gee honey, I'd love to redo the rooms, but we need to buy 14 new crowbars </font color>
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Of course!
Any of those discussed will work, but for the infrequent job, I would just go with what I had.
I also did a Google search for mine and came up empty. I have only found them in old-time hardware stores.
When I started my millwork apprenticeship in 1973, the guy who worked next to me specialized more in taking things apart than putting them together. [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img] That's where I first saw one, and was impressed with the amount and type of leverage it produces. Something subtle about the way it is shaped just makes it work better than any other small pry bar I have used. And, it was specifically designed for pulling baseboard, so there's your excuse to go out and get one [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
The one I use is about 6-7" in length. Much thinner and doesn't mark up the wall so much. Make sure you try to use it at a stud location or then you'll really mess up the wall.
I have one of the baby bars and it's great for trim removal. Ya can't really get enough leverage to break anything, very good for the hamfist in all of us.
Take a utility knife and cut along the top to release any paint or caulking.
Set your 6" wide putty knife against the wall and use a bar in front of it. Spreads out the load and *helps* prevent the sheetrock from caving in.
As someone said, pull the nails out the back with some Channelocks or nippers.
I just cruised to Amazon and found some Shark brand pry bars that look good too. The reviews talk about just the thing your doing. I don't work for amazon but I like shopping there.
Not to beat this thread to death [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] but really, one can never have enough tools [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
Here is a handy little item, fairly cheap (under $10), that also works well for miscellaneous prying tasks. It is primarily sold as a paint scraper, but even the manufacturer considers it a pry bar as well:
And so the quest begins for the "mini me" 7" prybar. It's a shame that the Depot is on my way home from work [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
Well I got the mini me prybar at Home Depot. Made in tiawan, cost $2.99. Unfortunately it was located in the tool corral, a dangerous place for me. I also walked out with one of these
Both are clamp accessories for my mitre saw. the first is a generic speed clamp. The second is for crown molding so you don't have to mitre & bevel, only mitre.
All good suggestions for prying the trim up. Getting it started is usually where the damage comes. -If- you can locate the first one or two nails at an end, use a nail set to drive them thru, You can then use the spatula to lift the end enough to get the bar under it. Once started, take it easy, moldings are usually thin, very dry and easily split. It was mentioned in passing but here it is again. Only pry at the nail locations preferably with a bar having a v-notch to fit over the nail shank.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote