<font color="blue"> Well, no need for me to model it up, I found a picture & article on the web. </font color>
That's it! This cut-off box, once you start exploring all of the things you can do with it, turns the table saw into a true utility saw.
Mine is slightly different, but the concept is the same. I made the back wood (fence) only as long as the plywood bottom, not hanging over (actually 1/8" or so less, esp. on the right hand end. Also taper the right hand end of the box's bottom plywood about 1/16" smaller at the front. This permits the saw's fence being set right against the box with no binding. I don't like the cut-off box's fence hanging over because of the weight, and you can always tack a strip of wood to the fence for an extension when you need it. (This is also a good reason to use something stable, but soft, like poplar, for the fence...easier to get the nails out).
I also preferred to have the box more centered over the blade, because you often need to work on both sides, so it's handy to have just as much working area on the right.
You can also adjust the size of the box (distance between front and back fences) according to what you might commonly need to cut off. Mine were always big enough to handle a 1x12. Bigger is not necessarily better, because you approach a situation where the front of the box is off the table during or after a cut.
I always used good hardwood for the runners and never had any problems with swelling due to weather changes. The key is to get a good fit to the runners first, before you cut your center line. I made the runners first to be a good tight fit in the grooves, so you have to tap them in; if you make them slide too easily at first, you will absolutely not get them exactly in the right place when you screw them on. Then, after they're on there, use a rabbet plane to ease them off until they slide well, with no slop. Only then mark your centerline with the blade.
For the front wood, only make it half the length of the box, centered over the blade. This permits you to transfer any odd angle from a layout with your bevel square, tack a strip to the bottom that can extend out past the front wood, and use that strip as a temporary fence to make the odd-angled cuts on stock.
Sorry to ramble on. An additional benefit of the cut-off box, in a commercial setting.....we never used the anti-kickback devices on our saws, but had to be on the lookout for OSHA. One of those boxes sitting on top of the saw made it OSHA-legal, because you obviously had to have the anti-kick back thingies folded down to use the box [img]/forums/images/icons/smirk.gif[/img]
Haven't had a chance to look at the rest of that web site yet. I'm at home now, with only a dial-up connection, so I'll wait until tomorrow and check it out using work's T3 [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
The American Woodworker Oct.'02 issue (#96) has an article on small shop
tablesaws. Ed choices are the DeWalt DW746X ($900), the Grizzly G1023 S110 ($800),
and "best buys" as Ridgid TS 3612 ($600) and Bridgewood TSC-10CL ($550).
I am currently looking at the DeWalt DW744 ($499) and the Bosch 4000
($499) for a more portable saw that weighs about 60#. Anyone have
either of these two saws, and comments about their satisfaction (or
non)?
Thanks,
That was a good review, and covered the reasons why I was looking at the DeWalt, as well as the reasons I
have not purchased one yet. Still thinking. The $499 prices I quoted were from ToolCrib (Amazon.com) as they
are offering the DeWalt (with stand) for $499, as well as the Bosch with stand, and rear (off bearing) extension
for $499. So the prices are coming down. A plus for the Bosch was an
electronic start-up, to bring the saw blade up to speed without the harsh kick as referred to in the review.
The Bosch had a larger table top than the DeWalt. A sled would likely be good for them both.
But the Bosch didn't have the neat fence that the DeWalt had.
So many decisions. Maybe I will look into the used market.
If you really want to buy a saw, take a look at used saws. However, from your post it sounds like you won't be using the saw very much and it might make more sense to find someone who owns a saw who'll do you a favor and cut up some stock for you.
I've purchased most of my woodshop tools used and have yet to have a problem where the tools had hidden defects. Most hobby sized tools don't get a lot of use and they are often put up for sale when the owner switches hobbies or decides that he wants to upgrade. Another advantage to the used route is that you generally don't lose anything when you decide to sell the tool.
I've also purchased used tools and they have performed well. Look for ones from hobby users as pointed out previously; not professionals since they can be used very hard on job sites and may not show it. Many retirees buy tools and hardly use them. And ususally very good quality too. Expect to pay about half list price.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote