Qs About Utility Trailers

[DaRube]

I'm considering a trailer to haul my tractor (Kubota B7500) around. I've been told that a 5x10 utility trailer is the thing.

What additional features should I be considering? Flatbed vs open side rails, wood plank floor vs metal mesh, brakes or no brakes, 1 or 2 axles, gate ramp or ???. Who are the top manufacturers?

I have no place to store it out of the Virginia weather, if that is a consideration. Also, lots of dirt roads around here.

I would also be looking at the used market. What are the most likely problems with used trailers, and how much should I expect to pay?

Thanks!!

Dave

[s1120]

I would think for towing a tractor you would want something a little bigger then that. I would go 6x12 at the smallest. Also most trailer axles will only hold 3600 lbs max. I dont know how much that tractor weighs but I am thinking a single axle trailer is going to be a little light. If it was me,[and it will be soon, as I am looking for a trailer also] I would look for a dubble axle, 16' long trailer. That way you got some reserve capasty, incase you get a bigger tractor, or a few mor attachments.

[egon]

Trailers:

5x10 might be a little small. As time progresses the trailer will be used for more things and may have to haul more weight.

Suggestion:
Lowboy rated at or about 10,000 pounds with load equalizer hitch.
tandem axle with electric brakes on all four wheels
Removable ramps
metal floor and expanded metal sides.
stake pockets
And most important a vehicle hitch equal to the trailer rating.

Egon

[Gary_in_Indiana]

You ought to be able to find a used 16' tandem axle car trailer in your area for sale. Something like that should be adequate for your needs.

I know around here you can get something like that brand new for under $2,000.00. Used should run you around half that, give or take. I'd go with a solid floor. Mesh won't hold up. Wood is cheaper than solid steel. I don't have sides on mine and don't want them. Trailer brakes are nice to have and possibly a requirement now.

I have a tandem axle 26' (22' bed) trailer with steel diamond plate flooring. The bed is an electric hydraulic tilt with eleven flush mount attachment points in the floor and a winch. It's probably more than you'd need. I know it's more than I need but I sure do like it. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

[Pat]

DaRube, You got lots of good advice here so far. You will always expand your use so don't buy the minimum! There are a few things no one mentioned. Get a darned good (more capacity than you think you will ever need) tongue jack. They are cheap so don't skimp. Removable ramps are fine BUT make sure you won't mind carrying them. Mine are strong but HEAVY. IF you make the ramps short to save weight then you make it steep and hard to use the ramps for other than driving up them (and you will eventualy use then for cargo). If you make them strong and long they are quite heavy. Consider a design where the ramps store in a fore and aft direction rather than athwart with access at the rear of the trailer. This way you slide them out for use and only have to pick up one end (1/2 the weight) to attach to the back of the trailer. Another option is ramps that are hinged to the back of the trailer and fold up and down. Some of them fold in the middle and are quire compact.

Steel vs wood floors: For sure you will replace the wood floor over time. Many users know when it is time to replace their wooden floor because their tractor fell through when they hit a bump in the road. Steel lasts a very long time and takes a lot of abuse. Keeping it painted isn't all that tough if you don't mind less than show car elegance finish.

Dovetails: There are pros and cons to dovetails. (Dovetail: bed turned down the last bit at the rear to make loading a tractor or whatever easier.) I have had 18 ft util trailers with and without dovetail. Current one is 1/2 dovetail. (last few feet slope about 1/2 as much as traditional dovetail)

Pro: Ease of driving something up the ramps. Without, I felt nervous like I was on a rocket being errected into firing position but then I saw a tractor turn over on a guy (no ROPS) while unloading off a trailer and I can't get that image out of my mind. You can load or unload easier with less steep ramps and it is easier to use the rear of the trialer for hauling cargo if it isn't tilted so much.

Con: you lose some off road ground clearance (why I have 1/2 dove tail) and the tilted part isn't too useful for cargo (1/2 dovetail isn't too bad) and a wooden bolster can be used if needed.
Pipe rails: I have one in front but it is in the way once in a while. I don't like pipe rails on the sides as they interfere with loading and unloading cargo from the sides.
Stake pockets: YES, plenty. Across the front and rear too. This will allow you to make the trailer a transformer toy and add sideboards for hauling dirt, bulk fertilizer, or whatever. You can make easy on/off cage for hauling stock. You can haul hay, big or little, round or square and there is always a convenient stake pocket to use as a tiedown point.

Tiedown points: recessed ones in a car hauler are great but the most versitile are stakepockets all around the outside. If you need fancy, weld on some "D" rings to the frame or the stake pockets. A good "D" ring location is on or near the centerline of the trailer, up front. This is where you attach the comealong when loading something that isn't self propelled, like a tractor with a problem or a dead car or whatever.

Axles: Do yourself a favor, get two.
Brakes: electric on all wheels with a good controller. Wheels: I recommend 16 inch over 15 inch and load range E as a minimum. (There are load range G trailer tires but they are only for a specific rim (rim capacity to match increased tire capacity).
Spare: Mount the spare holder where it will not interfere with approaching the trailer from either side to load/unload cargo that isn't self propelled. Horizontally flat on the tongue is a good location. I lay a board on my spare and rest my FEL bucket up there and my brush hog only overhangs the rear of the trailer a foot or so.

Coupler: Bulldog is better than stamped steel.

Get an accessory battery and battery box with breakaway brake switch.

Acessories: Get a tongue lock and use it. I had a new trailer stolen during a 24 hr period when I forgot to put the tongue lock on after a couple months of religious tongue lock use. I have a mirror mount which is a "U" shaped piece of thin sheet metal that sits on the tailgate of the pickup (open side of the "U" pointed down) If you are real nervous about your paint line it with felt or other soft cloth. This piece of metal has two little holders on it that accept small pieces of tubing which are a "U" shaped frame with a swivel mounted convex mirror in the center of the "U". This allows me to see the trailer hitch ball and as I back up to the trailer I can also see the coupler on the tongue. If I am off too far to correct and hitch up I can pull forward correct and try again, usually get it on the forst or second try. I can see EXACTLY where the ball and coupler are in relation to each other and get a near perfect docking about 7 out of 10 hitchings and 2-3 hitchings on 2nd try. Rarely I need a third pass. All of this without getting out of the truck or with a second person, and no yanking on the trailer tongue trying to move it 1/2 inch (not easy with a load on). At night I lick a scrap of white paper and stick it to the top of the ball for better visibility and lay a flashlight (square 6 volt lantern, doesn't roll around)) on the bumper to light up the hitching action. I intend to put a little reflective dot on the top of the coupler to make it easier to see and then the light of my back up lights will be more than sufficient to see to line up.

My trailer is all steel, diamond plate floor and fenders, tandem axle, electric brakes on all wheels, 1/2 dovetail, flatbed HD carhauler with stake pockets and spare as above. I got here through evolution not a blinding revelation and this isn't the trailer for everyone. It is likely bigger than you want and possibly than you need. It is 18 feet 3 inches on the floor. I had it built with the tongue extended a bit to make more room for the FEL bucket. It backs easily but will turn too sharp if you let it.

Mine isn't the fanciest trailer its size I've seen around but it is about as practical and versitile as I have seen. I had it custom built to my enlightened requirements (stolen trailer was closer to stock). It is 12,000lb gross weight or about 10,000 load capacity and so far the heaviest load was broken concrete from an old sidewalk and foundation.

Pat

[Steelfan]

Great Post Pat,

I agree that you definitely need a double axle trailer. I was looking for a trailer to haul my NH TC21D with the weight of around 3000 lbs with the FEL and MMM. A single axle is rated for no more than 2000 lbs in Pa. I would make sure that your investment (tractor) is hauled safely. I don't think that you'll be sorry is you go with at least 6 X 12. Good Luck.

Kent

[Fishman]

Pat makes some excellent points . . . points that I considered when I bought my trailer recently.

However, I think you would be well served with a tandem axle trailer with 7,000 lbs capacity, as opposed to the 10 or 12 k Pat recommended. This should give you almost 5 k of useable capacity which should be plenty for a 7500 and implements. That is the size I got for my 2910 and it is plenty.

Now don't get me wrong, a 10k trailer would be great, but I couldn't justify the extra $600. Mine cost $1,400 and was by far the best trailer I've seen for the money (brand was Load Trail). Specs include twin 3,500 axles, one with electric brakes; 20' wood floor with full dovetail; dual heavy-duty ramps; stake pockets; pipe rail at front only. I also had a Tekonsha brake controller installed ($150) and bought a spare rim & tire ($85).

So if you have the money, buy more trailer. The little 5x10 trailers at Home Depot are $1k [img]/forums/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] which makes a tandem axle sound like a bargain to me.

[pajoube]

Pat,
Great post, your discription is very helpful and appreciated.
PJ

[Pat]

Fishman, Thanks for the compliment. Oh, by the way, I didn't recommend a trailer carrying capacity or axle capacity. I mentioned what I had and that it wasn't right for everyone. There are at least two trailer mfg near me with comparable prices. One is real close, the one where I bought my last two trailers.

Check out the bargains on very well built trailers: http://www.holttrailers.com

16' Car Hauler $810
18' Car Hauler $1,260

I customized and upgraded the heck out of mine: 16 inch rims with good load range "E" tires, 4 wheel elec brakes, spare tire on custom mount, HD ramps, a bunch of stake pockets, 7000lb tongue jack, diamond plate fenders and floor, 1/2 dove tail, extended tongue, front pipe rail, break away safety switch and battery, etc.

I managed to run the price up around $2K on mine, a year or so ago. Prices creep up with the cost of steel.

Of course these prices are FOB the factory in rural South Central Oklahoma. They sell trailers as fast (or faster) than they can build them. It is not uncommon to see a couple 1 ton dually Dodge Cummins turbo diesels come in and hook up to big goose neck trailers with 3-6 trailers of varying sizes loaded on them and head out.
Holt sells them to everyone at the same price as far as I know so someone somewhere is paying transportation and profit on top of cost.

I don't own stock in the place and am not related, just impressed with the quality at the price. I couldn't beat their deal with reasonable effort so was glad to support a private family owned and operated buisness. If it wasn't too far to drive so it would burn up the savings, I couldn't recommend a better trailer from nicer folks.

Pat

[Fishman]

<font color="blue"> Axles: Do yourself a favor, get two. </font color> [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

Yes, that's just great advice! [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

Pat, those specs and prices look great! Probably could have saved myself a couple of c-notes.