Hardwood Floors: Plan B unfinished + Refinish old

[MarkV]

Haz,

Glad you decided to find a local flooring guy for the floors. Being one of those types that likes to do everything myself,I understand the desire to try floor sanding. I do believe it is one of those projects that without the right equipment and experience you end up better off hiring out. You also want it to last as long as possible because it will be a bit of a mess during the process.

If you do find some pet stains from the puppy they can be patched before the floor is sanded. This is pretty standard stuff for us so I would expect it to be the same in your area.

Keep us up to date on the progress. It is rare that anyone is unhappy with new wood floors so I would expect happy days ahead for you.

MarkV

[hazmat]

Well, finally cought up with the floor guy. $2.50 /sq foot to sand & finish. Don't know all the details (# of coats of poly etc.), but we are going to meet for him to see the house & go over the details more.

He quoted $9-10/sq foot for him to install & finish the floors in the DR & LV. I can get the oak flooring for $2.75(white)-$3.25(red) / sq foot. Economically makes sense for me to install it & have him sand & finish it. $5.57/sq foot vs $10 [img]/forums/images/icons/ooo.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/ooo.gif[/img]

[AndyF]

You might want to think of everything else thats on your list that needs to get done. If he does a good job, he'll free you up to do a lot of other things. If you're patient, its not hard to do a nice job with the floor, but it will take you a lot longer than it'll take a pro.

[MarkV]

Steve,

Wow! [img]/forums/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] Looks like I need to move my business up your way. I guess I am not that surprised, I know my folks in Illinois pay much more than we do here in Atlanta for many trades. One of the things that caught my attention was the price of flooring. Here I pay between $2.00 and 2.35 for either white or red #1 common oak flooring. Select grade flooring will run .25 to .50 more and I will not use any lesser grade. (90% of the flooring put in here is #1 common oak) Most of the oak used down here is coming form Tenn. and N. Carolina so shipping may be the big difference in price.

With most any project I would try to get more than one estimate. If you are having a hard time locating flooring companies look for flooring suppliers. They will know the people that work your area. One note on suppliers of flooring material. Down here the shops that sell hardwood, tile, carpet, etc. are not the places the pros buy their flooring material. Wood flooring supplier's normally only sell wood flooring, at least down this way.

Given the prices, I think I agree and would install the floor in the living and dinning room your self. It will work you a bit but with the basic carpentry skills and tools that you have I think you will be able to do just fine.

MarkV

[Hank]

<font color="purple"> oak flooring for $2.75(white)-$3.25(red) </font color>

These prices are probably supply-driven, but I would definitely jump on the white oak at that price. It is harder for a wearing surface (also much harder on knives and other woodworking equipment).

[hazmat]

Time for an update. Ordered the flooring today, turns out the local supplier has it in stock. Just a matter of picking it up.

I determined that it was red oak that we have, I compared a threshold that I pulled up with several samples.

We're done painting the living room &amp; the dining room will be done this weekend.

How long should I let the wood settle before installing it? I've got 2.5 weeks before my 2 week "vacation" starts.

[beenthere]

Hazmat
Your question about "how long to let the flooring settle" is not an easy one to answer. It depends on what the "air dry" moisture content is of the wood when you picked it up. That moisture content depends on the relative humidity conditions where the wood flooring has been stored, which likely has been outside, undercover. Bringing the wood inside into a heated room where the relative humidity is much lower, will cause the wood to dry out, thus also causing the wood to shrink (in width and in thickness). This shrinking can cause warping.

The most ideal condition is to lay out the flooring and strip it so it can dry evenly on all sides. Not very practical. The other choice is to not worry about it, leave it bundled in the room it will be laid, and let it dry after installing, in place. Problem is that this will allow small openings to occur between the pieces when the flooring reaches equilibrium with the room conditions. In the summer, if not much AC is used, the humidity will swell the cracks shut (given that they are not filled with dirt and/or floor finish).

So, it is a catch 22 at best. Knowing too much about what is going to happen is probably the worst situation. I am going through the same gyrations with my son who has just received his pre-finished maple flooring and is preparing (with my help) to put it down in a new house. Fortunately the walls have been painted for a month and there is no fresh concrete in the house so the moisture (relative humidity) is down and he will likely be faced with the same dilemna as you are.

No easy answer. When I laid my oak strip floor several years ago (34) I brought the flooring straight from the mill which meant right after the dry kiln, so it was low in moisture content, straight, laid tight, and has remained tight for 34 years. The worst thing for flooring is for it to be stored outside and subjected to the high relative humidity that we get in the winter seasons. If your flooring is not too long out of the flooring mill, it may not have picked up much moisture and may not have much moisture to lose.

So, that isn't a very direct answer to your question <font color="blue"> ""How long should I let the wood settle before installing it? "" </font color> Still, I hope it was helpful to your next decision.

[MarkV]

Hazmat,

I sure can't argue with the explanation that Beenthere gave on how moisture content effects flooring and any other wood product. He explained it very well. If you can let it sit for a week or two I don't think you will see any problems. When I see the most problems are during those times of year when one day it is hot and humid and the next we have to turn on the heat. I believe you are pretty much into your heating season and are not seeing great shifts in the relative humidity on a daily basis so I would not worry too much.

The reality of the situation is that if you hired the job out, the contractor would have the wood delivered in the morning and would most likely install it the same day. Most new construction sites, at least down here in the south, don't have heat or AC until the house is completed so acclimating the wood to the site is a bit of a moot point. Given that you do have some time to let the wood sit in the room you are that much better off.

Floors do expand and contract with the weather. They will form some gaps when the humidity is low and will tighten up when it is high. That is why it is important to leave a gap around the exterior that will be covered by your baseboard or shoe molding. It leaves room for the wood to expand with out individual pieces buckling.

Sounds like you are on the right track. Let me know if I can help with any questions that come up.

MarkV