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Thread: Candidate Floorplan

  1. #1
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    Candidate Floorplan

    Here is a candidate floorplan, one of the front runners as we come down toward the start of construction. I am designing it like an electronic or software engineering project, in modules with established interfaces. This is to contain/constrain ripple effects. When you try to integrate a house all at once there are too many variables and interdependencies. If one thing changes the "domino" effect ripples through the design changing many other things.

    Take, for example, the Master suite module: You can rearrange and resize many of its components without effecting the adjacent Great Room Module. Similarly you can rearrange/resize the Great room with little or no effect on the other modules.

    Now, a walk through... South is at the top and the entry is centered on the north side of the great room. 42 inch door with transom and sidelight windows opens into foyer/entry hall where you can go up the stairs or proceed toward the center of the room where yo can turn right into the living room area, left to the dining area, or U-turn to the left into the kitchen. The island between the kit and dining is bi-level with high side toward dining room. High side is 48 inches and low side counter top is 36 in. A single deep sink large enough for a large pan with handle is there with dishwasher to left below. There is a second sink under the window at the north end of the kit. Running N-S along the Kit/Util wall on the Util side is floor to ceiing shelves inset into the wall. This room also is the laundry with front loading appliances on a 20 inch high platform with storage beneath. There is a large deep util sink and clothes sorting/folding counters.

    The east door of the Util room goes to the breezeway to the garage/shop/wife's project room/storage (not designed yet but I'm leaning toward a "Miracle Truss" steel building).

    There is some interactivity in the interface between the Great and Master modules. The closet with bifold door has walls of steel rleinforced concrete as it limits the sightlines into the master suite for windblown debris (Think F-5 tornado). The walls of the master mod are steel reinforced concrete (ICF) and the door between the bedroom and sitting room is a steel safe room door with decorative skin. The bedroom itself is windowless until and unless I come up with an acceptable storm shutter design. The master bath and sitting room have sindows.

    The bathroom oposite the util room has a doorless shower and serves as the day guests powder room as well as the mudroom shower for when I come in needing a good hosing down. It is opposite the laundry and note the closet with bi-fold door opening to the hall just across from the bath room.

    [I come in dirty in dirty clothes and exit the module clean in clean clothes with dirty outfit in laundry, never have taken a single dirty step beyond the laundry.]

    This bath room has two doors to facilitate its dual use, mudroom access and powder room access fron border of kit and dining area.

    The back porch is about 50 ft long and 10 ft wide with 2 ft more of overhang (12 ft roof/10 ft floor) (4:12 pitch) Front porch is also 4:12 but only 8 ft floor and 10ft roof. Front porch will likely not grow and could be cut down in length to about 1/2 shown size (centered on entry) as it is ornamental and will not receive the heavy use of the back porch.

    The back porch might grow to also cover the sitting room window wall (with french doors in center) and could wrap around the west end.

    The second floor will be comprised of the space captured under the 10:12 or 12:12 pitch gable roof and will have 8-10 ft center ceiling heights with sloping ceiling sections as dictated by roofline and insulaltion with a minimum finished ceiling height of 7 ft at the sides to accomodate standard doors to access the attic storage.

    I'm behind in updating this plan and have changed the master bath to include a 5x5 ft whirlpool in place of the 30x60 inch tub shown. Ignore the tub/shower nomenclature, it isn't so. The bathroom change takes away 1/2 ov the linnen closet in the connecting hall between the bedroom and bath and puts the twin vanities where the tub is shown. A few sqft of the N-E corner of the bed room are "borrowed" as well.

    There is a small office/computer room in the N-W corner of the Great Room Module. There is a propane gas log fireplace with piezo-electric ignition (no AC required) in the Great room flanked by book cases. To the south is a window wall (two ponds in view less than 100 yds away, frequented by turkey and deer and ...)

    Please feel free to make suggestions or ask questions. This is NOT an ego trip for me. It is considerable work for me as this is only the second house I have designed and I sure as heck want to know of any potential problems this month, not in two or three months when the concrete will have cured pretty well (90% of final strength in 30 days).

    If there are a couple of posts folowing this, it means I was successful in getting some elevations to accompany the plan, otherwise, use your imagination for now.

    P.S. This is the output of Punch Software's Professional Home Design (Staples, $79, if I recall correctly). It is 1 of 4 architecture programs I have.

    Pat
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

  2. #2
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    Re: Candidate Floorplan

    Pat,

    As an engineer, I'm able to translate your description to a floorplan, but for the spacially challanged, you forgot to include the attachment. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

    Sounds Like a great house. I like your modular design idea. When we were shopping for a house, we considered building. The endless combinations were a bit overwhelming.
    Hazmat

  3. #3
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    Re: Candidate Floorplan

    Sounds nice, I like the farm style homes with the large porches. I think I would have to have some windows in the bedroom. I understand the desire to not have to worry about getting up and running to the safe room at 1:00 o'clock in the morning. Will the windows in the bath and sitting room qualify as a fire escape path? Sounds like you will just do the master bed in ICF? What ICF are you considering? Did you give up on the walk-out basement?

    I read your post on the cabinets and laundry room shelves. Sounds good. I don't know what kind of quality they build, but there is a cabinet shop on 177 a few miles north of Sulphur, might check with them to see what they could do.

    Keep us updated

    Gary

  4. #4
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    Re: Candidate Floorplan

    Gary, I'm having a real problem with my computer setup. I would love to post a floor plan and make it much easier to communicate but no joy so far. I have managed to get my new printer going and can print out floorplans. I haven't figured out why my scanner has suddenly become so tempermental. It has worked perfectly for a couple years and now I'm having a lot of trouble. I really think there is a S/W conflict somewhere but haven't discovered what yet.

    It seems like a sily way to post a graphic: print it out from a computer application and then scan it in to post it. It would be great to have an application that could take the file I get if I "Print to File" and convert that to a JPG, TIF, or whatever. It seems dumb to have to go through an intermediate PAPER phase to send an electronic format graphic.

    Yes, I am planing on only having the Master mod in ICF (ARXX, Pollysteel, or...) The only builder close enough to want to do a turnkey with ALL ICF does not work to a firm price contract with change orders, just cost plus (too scarry for me, I need to have a pretty good upper bound before starting) This elliminates doing it all ICF. Another builder from farther away would do all the ICF but nothing else and I have to have someone else do the rest. Poor accountability.

    There aren't many custom home builders I have talked to who are interested in this project AND seem like someone I want doing my project. Current count is (1).

    I have pretty well finished the design of the main floor and will now be exploring the basement and 2nd floor. I will have one or the other or both. If only one, it will probably be a second floor due to cost considerations given the innexpensive capture of floorspace under the high pitched gable roof with little or no exterior walls for the second floor. This is what they call a 1 1/2 story house. If no basement, then the 2nd floor will have 2 bedrooms and a full bath and probably a small loft with railing and view down into the great room toward the fireplace. If I can squeeze a basement out of the budget, there will be a bedroom and a bath in the basement. Mechanical installs will be in the basement if there is one or attic spaces otherwise.

    That cabinet shop is probably "NYE" a woman owned buisness. They did the cabinets for my mom and used to have a near exclusive with some of the builders in Stratford. Very independent minded, her way or the highway. I'll try to get a price/quality check for what I want from her. If her outfit can do what I want better-cheaper than other sources, they'll get the job. I haven't seen any of their "Good Stuff" or know what they can do. I have only seen the econocabs they do for the Stratford market. I am leaning toward buying the boxes prefabbed, assembling them myself, and building the face frames and doors myself. I can do face frames and doors, it isn't rocket science. I don't have much experience in doing the boxes and making provisions for full suspension drawers adjustable shelves and so on. (NOTE: I'm not a highly experienced woodworker!) Probably could do it but I will have enough other things to keep me busy. It is possible to use the cabinets without doors and the decorative drawer fronts while I am making them so that might be a hedge or way to leverage my time.

    Pat
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

  5. #5
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    Re: Candidate Floorplan

    <font color="purple"> It would be great to have an application that could take the file I get if I "Print to File" and convert that to a JPG, TIF, or whatever. </font color>

    Pat, one method I have resorted to is to use the Windows clipboard. From the drawing application that has the floor plan, making sure that that window has the "focus", hit ALT-PrtSc. This puts the entire contents of that window onto the clipboard. Then fire up your .jpg/graphics software, and paste the clipboard in, and save as a .jpg file.

  6. #6
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    Re: Candidate Floorplan

    Is it better late than never or better never than late?

    Here are some DELAYED transmissions...
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

  7. #7
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    Re: Candidate Floorplan

    Interesting! This is second attempt. First time the "Attachment" link turned red when touched but did not produce an attachment.

    So here is a low res graphic of the back of the house. Full res graphics are about 8 megs per picture, a bit too much for this forum.
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

  8. #8
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    Re: Candidate Floorplan

    Hank, thanks a lot! I'll try that if I have more (probably more accurate to say when I have more) problems scanning. Still would like a direct conversion between print format .prn for my HP DJ6122 and jpg, tif or whatever.

    Thanks again,

    Pat
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

  9. #9
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    Re: Candidate Floorplan

    Pat:

    Looks nice.
    Are the covered porches going to have floors at just above ground level?
    Why did you label one walk in dressing room as yours? This will quickly be taken over and your accoutraments hung in the back entrance closets.

    Chances most builders are not interested is that you are deviating from the norm and their estimating is not capable of handling it. Another factor is that you will be present and watching which will upset some.

    Looks good.

    Egon

  10. #10
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    Re: Candidate Floorplan

    Egon, You are again, as always, very insightful. Hope springs eternal... My wife and I are sharing a single walk in closet in one of the two master suites in my moms house (my first home design that was built). My wife currently has about 8 1/2 ft of closet rod and I have about 7. We share a built-in comprised of drawers and shelves behind double doors (about 2x2 ft and 7 ft tall). I hope (without sound basis) that the 18 1/2 ft of closet rod and 3ea 2 ft wide built-ins reserved for her will for a time stave off incursions into my 11 1/2 ft of closet rod and 3ea 2 ft wide built-ins. She will have over double her current hanging space and 6 times her built-in drawer and shelf space. Of course her space needs are available volume (hers plus mine) + 10 to 20%.

    A lot of builders were not considered as ANYTHING above 1500 ft with any complication is beyond their comfort zone. We became good friends with the builder that did my design for my mom's house and they wouldn't touch this design or any out of a plan book that remotely appeals to us. They build quality homes that are a fantastic value for the $ but are not very complicated. I all them econoboxes but not where my mom or the builder will hear. They use the best materials, order their wood directly from Weyerhauser and get better stuff than you could get at Lowes if you spent days culling through 2x6 lumber. Their standard designs are pretty simple. I elliminated two good contenders whose work I like because they both work only COST PLUS.

    The builder I favor sized me up and recommended that I handle all the money, buy all the materials and track consumption. He requires progress payments for labor at certain milestones of progress and gets the ballance of the estimated cost (his profit) at job completion. Seems fair to me. He does only custom homes and is the most knowledgeable builder I have ever met. He is not some good ole boy who does it the same way he was shown 30 yrs ago. He incorporates modern materials and methods and can hold up his end of a conversation when we talk ground sourced heat pumps, in-floor hydronic, proper water abatement techniques for building below the water table and son on. the down side is that he doesn't do ICF (yet) so I have to get someone to do that and integrate the two methods where they overlap/connect. Luckily Simpson Strong Tie folks have developed galvanized steel connectors for connecting wood to ICF with NO wood to concrete contact.

    The porch in front will likely be floored with a slab not much above grade. Back porch floor is not determined as if I have at least a partial walkout basement the back porch floor will be 10 ft in the air in places and near grade at the west end. With no basement it too will be near grade. Slope is 4 ft in 100 ft over the house site, downhill from N-E towards the S-W. House will be oriented long ways E-W, perhaps with a little clockwise bias (south wall a little toward the west). My appologies to any persons of the Druid faith.

    There are features not shown in the grafics. There will be clerestory windows above the porch roof front and rear centered on the doors as well as some dormers to enhance both outward appearance as well as put more windows upstairs and slightly improve the liveability and floor space up their.

    Although I have not shown windows in the master bedroom, I have had several ideas toward that end. One is to place a FEMA approved storm door where you want a door sized window (door opens inward into room) and place a window in the same opening. Artful use of window treatment (curtains/drapes/etc) can conceal the door when it is open or closed. Smaler windows could have internal storm shutters that are upholstered to soften their appearance and or are hiden by decorative window treatment as in the door situation above.

    Pat
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

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