Pole Barn Framing/Sheeting Pics

[chevdog]

Glad you like the car - It's a 2 door hardtop, 454, TH400, Ford 9 [img]/forums/images/icons/cool.gif[/img] I also wish I'd kept most of the cars I've ever had.

I'll continue to post pictures as I get the foundation done if it will help anybody else.

The 4 man crew raised the trusses by hand - glad I did not have to do it as they are not light!
Hope I explain this OK - One guy was on top of each side wall, 2 guys on the ground. They had slings on each end of the truss and a couple of 2x4's nailed to the center vertical brace of the truss. They hoisted one side of the truss onto a side wall, then hoisted the other side so the truss would up resting on the side walls, but hanging upside down (ridge towards the ground). Then the 2 guys on the ground used the long 2x4's to slowly flip the truss up into a vertical position. When it was straight up (guys on ground still holding it) the guys on the sidewalls nailed it to the sidewall columns and/or column stubs. Then while one guy still held it vertical another one got on a ladder and nailed a 2x4 brace from the new truss back to the other trusses for support. They had a system, but it still took being careful how they handled the trusses.

PJ, the roof/wall panels are 26ga factory coated - colors are standard mfg selections: Polar white 0111, Red 0241. There is also a Crimson Red 0212, but it was a little too red if you know what I mean. Most of the barn and metal builders use these same color applications.

Building is "gutter ready" which means the roof panels overhang the sidewalls about 2" or so. I'll install a gutter on each side with a downspout at each end of the gutter.

[JazzDad]

Not as young as I used to be - took all day to install this plumbing.

Nick, you're being modest. Not many people know what Texas gumbo is like.

[Gatorboy]

I am surprised your bottom chords are larger than your top chords. Everything I read says the top chords need to be the stronger of the two.

[lblair]

Your Barn is looking great. Im glad you posted pictures. Like many others im going to put a barn up also. Will the roof metal be one piece lengths? It would be nice, but real hard to handel and ship. Am i being foolish to even think they could be? Are your posts 10' on center and roof rafters 5' on center? You said the size of the barn so i tried counting [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] and doing the math. tough to see them all though. Without getting to personal could you give a ball park figure on the price of a barn this size.
Thanks for the info to the forum!
Larry

[chevdog]

Dave, the bottom chord is carrying a portion of the rafter load through the cross bracing as well as its own weight. Due to the 40ft clear span 2x8's were needed.

Larry, the roof panels are 1 piece, except at the skylight panels. There are 6 skylight panels, 3 per each side of roof, located right by the ridge. There are also 2 roof ridge vents. The roof panels (about 21') are not a problem to ship, especially considering the entire barn package (including the 40' trusses) are delivered on a single flatbed. Handling by the crew did not seem to be a problem at all. I prefer the single span panels so there are no overlapping seams.

Posts are 10' on center and rafters are at 5' on center. The side with the 2 overhead doors has the posts in a little different spacing since I needed the doors at specific locations.

Barn cost as you see it (well, including the roof too) was $11,600. By the time I get slab, plumbing, electrical, I will have spent about $15,500 total. That also includes the cost of the dirt pad - top of slab will be 12-14" above grade. That cost is with me doing all the plumbing, electrical, and slab prep. One nice thing is that I have just enough leftover material to do a small shed enclosure around the well that will match the barn [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

I will post more pictures as I finish the plumbing and get the slab prep work done. I'll also get some outside pics of the finished barn.

[lblair]

Thanks for the info and the personal info too. Some times people don't like saying what it costs so thanks. Its nice to have a ball park figure on what one may pay for such a project as a barn.
Larry

[chevdog]

Stuff like barn cost doesn't bother me to tell - like cars, there will always be someone who paid lower or higher [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

I hope to have more pics by next week. We continue to feel the effects of the October monsoon we had. The concrete trucks for our house foundation pour cannot get around on the property, so we are having 500' x 10' x 6" of road base installed today plus we get to pay for a pump truck for the pour. It's not muddy or a problem for tractor or pickup, just too soft for a fully loaded concrete truck to get around the slab. I laid geotextile cloth down yesterday as a bottom for the road base to avoid water pumping up as heavy loads are applied.
That also means that the barn slab is affected - the road base does not extend to the barn so we will need to let it dry for at least another week, but I will still have the slab prep done and ready for whenever we can get trucks back there. I will not have it the barn slab ready by daybreak Staurday which is when we are scheduled for house pour.
That's life, right? [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

[Hayseed]

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
we are having 500' x 10' x 6" of road base installed

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What type of road base are you having put down? I was told to put down a layer of clay before putting in my gravel drive. Gravel right on top of the gumbo soil would just sink in and be gone. I have read about the geotextile cloth but none of my neighbors have used it and their driveways look okay...

That fabric works excellent.

[chevdog]

We're having road base #2 applied - it contains gravel to 1" in diameter along with some limestone and fines that help bind the whole thing together so it will compact and stay that way. The trucks start at the beginning of the drive - as they continue to drive in over what's been dumped and spread they help compact it.

The fabric is really good stuff. Not only does it prevent the downward migration of the base material into the subsoil, but it prevents moisture from pumping up as loads are applied. It's like when you have a moist section of soil that you've walked or driven over a few times - you'll see that the weight has started to drive water to the surface - next thing is you've got puddles forming. The fabric forms a barrier to that occuring. It also helps distribute the load over a little wider area so it's not so concentrated.

The clay that you mentioned is also set up as a moisture barrier of sorts, but the fabric works a little more efficiently and is easier for you to do it yourself.