Gary,
Have you considered a roof coating like the kind used on mobile homes. Although my experience is limited, we used the stuff on an old camper that we had as a temporary structure while building our weekend home. The thing leaked like there wasn't a roof and the coating sealed it well enough to last the 4 years we used the camper. The stuff isn't cheap but I think with your panels nailed in the valleys that you will have a hard time stopping the leaks with caulk.
MarkV
I would suggest that you bite the bullet and re-roof the pole barn. There will be a lot of work invested to do a short-cut patch job, and it will only delay the inevitable. Just as well invest in the final product.
Water leaking through will quickly rot and decay the softwood lumber used to fabricate trusses and purlins, and it only takes a couple short years to do its damage. Leaking roof's are the worst, as the water that gets in is trapped and the wood cannot dry quickly. This continually damp and soft wood are perfect conditions for wood decay.
<font color="blue">"bite the bullet and re-roof the pole barn"</font color>
That thought has crossed my mind, believe me. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img] Along with the material expense (the barn is 70 x 80), another concern I have is that I would likely have to hire a lot of the work done as I'm not exactly built for working on a metal roof (actually, I think it's more that a metal roof isn't exactly designed to have me working on it). [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]
I suppose I'll have to at least break down and have someone out to give me an estimate on doing it. The good news is if I do it soon I'll at least have a bed of snow to break my fall when I hear the number and faint. [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
Do you have a pic, and did you get any of the landscaping done around the barn? Good luck on the estimate. A metal roof with a local tradesman looking for some winter work may not be so bad on the estimate (then again, I could be wrong too).
Sorry, I don't have a picture of the barn at all. I should try to rectify that. [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
As to the landscaping, I'm afraid that time got the better of me on that one. Today I'd have to move over half a foot of snow before I got down to the dirt I want to move. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img] At least it's a nice, white Christmas. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
You make a good point on having the roof redone this time of year. I'll have to follow up on that a bit more diligently.
Gary, There are caulks and then there are CAULKS (GE Silicone 50 year guarantee) I find it difficult to think of GE 50 yr as a temp patch if it is applied properly to a sound substrate.
Nails?? What a bogus assembly job. This just keeps getting worse and worse. Depending on your budget, I'd look for a way to get several years of service if a new roof was over budget. ONe of the problems with nails is that they might loosen just a bit and being in the low part of the profile that poses a problem. Securing the metal to stop its working would be a benefit. I'd be tempted to put in a good screw with a gasket or "O" ring next to each nail and seal over now stabilized nail head and the new screw too for good measure. There are several commercial sealers available in "caulk" tubes that might be suitable. I'd contact a coatings and sealers company, mfg or dist, and get some info. Threre are duct sealing mastics which have excellent properties that would recommend them for your application BUT I don't know if they are suited for exterior application.
I should think it would be worth exploring some of these ideas before replacing the entire roof.
Here is one "crazy" scheme off the top of my hear. You might need to modify it to your specific application but here is the kernel:
Procure some small (about 1 inch web width ) "C" channel. Split some tubing and place over the two edges of the channel to act as gaskets or buy actual off-the-shelf gasketing. Install the chanel in an inverted "U" configuration in long lengths over the nailheads. Install using screws gasketed with "O" rings.
When clamped down by the screws, the channels should not permit any water to get to the nail heads. Your sealing problem has been transfered to that of sealing the screws which you can tighten in a controlled fashion to "set" the "O" rings appropriately. Spacing of the mounting screws is dependant on the stiffness of the "C" channel and other obvious factors.
If you are a belt and suspenders kind of guy, seal the nailheads with caulk and run a "micro-bead" of caulk on the long gasket's sealing surface to accomodate any irregularlities of fit.
Perhaps you or some of our ingenious DIY guys can mod my suggestion to improve it.
Patrick
"I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"
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