How long would I have to leave 1/4" steel in a 55 degree environment (like a heated shop) to be able to effectively weld it after it has been in a 20 degree environment (like an Indiana winter day)?
How long would I have to leave 1/4" steel in a 55 degree environment (like a heated shop) to be able to effectively weld it after it has been in a 20 degree environment (like an Indiana winter day)?
not long on mild steel just make sure metal is clean . I have welded outside in some cold weather and not had any problems
Don't think there is a need to warm it up as far as the welding goes. It might feel better if you did, but it will get warm real fast when you touch the rod to it.
Thank you both for your help. I really didn't want to wait until spring to do this. Now it seems like tomorrow is an option [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
what is your project
<font color="blue">" what is your project" </font color>
Actually, it's just part of an ongoing process of upgrading an old trailer I bought. The trailer is a 26' with 22' of steel diamond plate flooring designed for car hauling. The bed has an electric powered hydraulic tilt mechanism so I don't have to mess with ramps. It has a very slight beaver tail on the back 4' section and on that is a swivel platform on which I can secure the front wheels of a second vehicle and pull it behind much like the little two wheeled car dollies used behind RV's.
Thus far I've completely rewired it and replaced all the lights. I used LED lights for tail/brake/turn and side marker/turn lights. I replaced the coupler that just made me nervous with a new, much heavier one and replaced the old skid jack I liked even less with a 7,000 lb. drop jack and added additional attachment points on the floor as well as rebuilt the battery box to accomodate a 1000 CCA marine deep cycle/starting battery I use to power the tilt bed and winch.
Now I'm wanting to fabricate a platform for a receiver tube to extend forward from the front edge of the bed. I have a Warn 8000 lb. winch I mounted to a 2" insert so I can move it on and off the trailer. I want to line up the receiver tube so that I can take the winch on it's base and just slide it across the bed to pin it in place. It weighs about 125 lbs. and I'd like to eliminate as much time juggling and aligning that as possible. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] I also want to make some brackets for a couple of top load toolboxes for the sides. I'm thinking I'll weld some C channel vertically to the trailer sides and then out at a right angle for the bottom with some flat stock at an angle for support.
I'm also replacing the fenders with some diamond plate fenders I got at salvage because the ends were compressed. I stood them on end, put my feet on one end and pressed up with my hands and got them back to the stock 68" size with very little effort to save $75. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] The toolboxes I got have diamond plate lids and diamond plate on one side so it'll be a nice look when I'm all done (depending on the quality of my work, of course). [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] They're each about 28W x 18H x 8D and should come in real handy for storing chains, axle straps, tie down straps and ratchets, etc. They even have a little tool tray I can use for pear rings, snatch blocks, gloves, etc., too. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
Lastly, I'd like to fabricate some kind of box to cover the winch on the trailer. I'm thinking I'll build something not unlike a semi tractor battery box with the sides cut at a 45 degree angle. When I use the winch the top would just come off and go in the back of the truck. I'd like to be able to keep the winch on the trailer unless I need it elswhere so the box would serve two purposes. It would protect the winch from the elements and it would keep the winch out of sight and out of mind to anyone who might be inclined to walk off with it.
I'm sorry for the long-winded answer to your question, but, as I said, it's just another part of an ongoing process. [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
The 1/4 In. plate shouldn't present any problems. If you really worry about it put a tiger torch on it for a few minutes to warm it up.
Its the really thick heavy stuff like sced 160 pipe that must be heated to a proper temp on both sides as there is too much heat lost due to conduction on the pipe material for the weld to be proper. These welds may even have to be heated as they cool down.
Note: I can't weld as I have stated before.
Egon
Hi Gary,
re beenthere: I would think that 35 degrees difference in ambient temp would make no difference when you consider the weld site is heated to thousands (?) of degrees.
OkieG
having worked at construction sites in the north (Northern Alberta) and in the arctic ... welding is done when metal needs to be joined [img]/forums/images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
I recall using tiger torches to heat truck oilpans to get them warm enough to start ... but don't ever recall anyone using one to heat metal before they started welding. And, if I recall correctly, the pipe on the Alaska pipeline was pretty thickwalled ....
pete
it's a shame that common sense isn't
Pete:
They do heat metal in cold temps and even heat it as it is cooling so no stress fractures occur.
It all depends on the service the product will be used for.
Egon
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