wow! I wasen't expecting that much. Thanks alot, i purchased the rifle from big 5 and the clerk pretty much just told me it was very old and russian. I'm gonna try that hot water method/quickly dry off.
1) Use VERY HOT water (I just let it constantly run from the faucet) as it will loosen the cosmoline.
2) Drizzle the dish washing soap on the parts you've wet with the hot water and then rub. Dunking in the sink like you would wash dishes isn't effective (too little soap). You can use a soft bristled toothbrush (lightly) to scrub away problem areas.
3) Be aware you will have to wash your sink out after you finish (i.e. cosmoline residue will be on it now. ) I generally use a Brillo pad - works well - about a 60 second job, but required none-the-less.
4) When washing the barrel/receiver assembly, make sure to run a dry patch down the barrel after washing to remove any moisture that may have gotten in it.
5) Make sure that any part you wash is completely disassembeled (i.e. don't clean the "bolt" - take the bolt completely apart and clean each individual piece. Same thing with the barrel/stock. etc...) I know, seems pretty "Duh" but just wanted to throw it out there in case others reading weren't aware.
That "old russian" is a neat rifle. Ballistically, you have a gun that is somewhere between the .308 and .30-06 with regards to energy/velocity. They can be pretty accurate too. Not sure what your intended use is, but suffice to say whether it be punching holes in paper or punching holes in game, for the price, they're hard to beat. If you ever decide to get in to reloading, they can be turned in to darn accurate guns.
Thanks, I will put that advice to use. btw, when you mentioned the bolt, would I just soak it in solvent for cleaning/wipe off? and would I oil it? (not clean from cosmolene, but from powder residue, dirt)
To clean the bolt (not initial cleaning, but say after a day of shooting), I'd just remove it from the gun, get a solvent-laden Q-tip and clean the front of the bolt - and then a dry Q-tip. You could also go over the main body of the bolt too if it's REALLY dirty, but chances are it will just be the very front where it meets up with a cartridge. After you've removed all the gunk, just use your oily rag and wipe down the bolt (whole thing) good to protect it. Voila! You're done - about a 2 minute operation total.
Also, I personally don't recommend you clean your barrel after every outing of shooting (unless you shoot a LOT of ammo.) Mainly because 1) it isn't necessary and 2) you can actually damage your barrel from "over cleaning." Also be aware that a clean barrel will shoot differently than a "dirty" one - one of the reasons I never clean my barrel(s) at any time between the start of hunting season and its end.
I always clean mine every time after shooting. I no longer use the copper brushes but I use the nylon ones others have mentioned. I think one of the best investments if you shoot regularly is a one piece nylon coated cleaning rod. I never use the bore snakes unless I am back packing or in Alaska or someplace where the moisture makes it critical to clean/oil every day and weight is a big issue. I clean my bore fist with shooters choice. If there is more persistant lead or copper fouling I use JB's polishing compound by Brownells. For the toughest copper residue I use sweets but very sparingly. On handguns I think the owners manual is the key. Each different firearm has key points that need a few drops of oil. Too much is just as bad as too little. I always keep the fingerprints wiped off. Dave
I only use the nylon brushes. Midway has a nice boxed set of nylon brushes for either rifle or pistol. It's nice to have all the sizes in one indexed case.
I've also found that the US military "medium weapons grade oil" is superb and cheap. It's great for the rails on a semi-auto handgun, pump shotgun rails etc. Unlike some of the lighter oils, it leaves a good film for much longer. It also works well in the cold. It's a little tough to find, but a few of the Army/Navy surplus stores have it.
The nylon brushes are a big improvement. Plus they work well with the JB's if you need it. On my SS barels most of the copper will come out with just Shooters choice. Sometimes they have to soak a day or so to get it all but its a very mild non abrasive way to clean. My carbon barrels all usually need at least some sweets to get the copper out. Man does that suff reek ! But it sure works good. Another thing I really like on my bolt actions is a bore guide from Stoney Creek (?) products. It keeps all the crud from the action when you pull the brush out. Dave
Everyone needs a bore guide for cleaning. Those ammonia based copper cleaners can sure do a job on cleaning the nasal passages. I've also been using the Barnes product to remove copper. I shoot almost exclusively Barnes X bullets and they're a little softer and cause more fouling. I recently shot some african game (great photo's) with the Barnes X in 300 win. mag and .257 WBY and was real impressed. I was only able to recover 1 bullet (most went through on a shoulder shot) and it expanded beautifully. I was able to get 5/8" groups with my handloads. They're a long bullet and seat real deep in the case. With my Brownings and WBY it's pretty much impossible to get your COL to be just shy of the lands and still fit in the magazine. So I was pretty happy with the groups I shot.
Regarding cleaning the bores:
I only clean them if my grouping begins to deteriorate (I oil the bore for corrosion protection, but don't clean every session). In fact, my groupings are terrible with a clean bore. After 3 - 5 or so rounds down the barrel the groups close in.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote