I've begun finishing a bit of our basement. Framed the interior walls with 2X4s but I'm thinking I can use 2X2s for some of the little "box-ins" that I'll need to cover various ducts and such. Nothing more than a 4 foot span. Saves me some money and they are easier to work with overhead. Does anyone know how far I can reasonably span with 2X2 framing for a drywall ceiling? As usual, TIA [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
Rob
Span? Not sure what you mean by span here, but assuming it is the span that the drywall is hanging on, then I would not go more than 2 - 3' without some support. Knots in a 2x2 sometimes don't leave enough straight-grain wood to carry much of a load (important on the tension side).
Also, the joints at the ends of the 2x2's will be very critical. Can't get more than 1 fastener (nail, screw) into the end of a 2x2 without getting closer than 3/4" from an edge. I wouldn't go less than 16" on center, and possibly 12" would be better.
Biggest problem I have with 2x2's is getting some that are straight, and that will stay straight. Also, I would compare the cost real careful before assuming they are cheaper than 2x4's. Ripping 2x2's out of 2x4 material is not real productive as the imbalanced stresses from the wood drying cause a lot of warping as the 2x2's are sawn.
Just thinking it will pay to be cautious.
I have been using steel studs on a lot of inside stuff, you can buy them at menards and others and they just screw together.
I am currently finishing my basement, and the steel studs are the way to go. They are less than half the cost of wood, and they are a piece of cake to install.
I'm not aware of any termites that can chew threw metal -- [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
:: D A V E
:: g a t o r b o y
And don't forget that steel studs are straight and don't split. [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
Yep they are great, but 1/2 the cost of lumber? Up in the Snowy North they are aboud at par, though it works out cheaper because they are all straight. Sounds like the US government's duty on Canadian softwood lumber is coming out of your hide!
By the way, a couple of tips on steel studs. First, they are a little trickier to install baseboards and so on. Second they are, like 1/8" wider than 2x lumber, which means jambs and the like are a pain. Plus, they have no strength, so you can't hand bookshelves & the like on them.
I did (almost) my whole house with steel studs. The sound better or more solid if you insulate them, even in the interior walls. This adds costs but is a great way of dramatically reducing the chances of fire spread.
DeWalt has a circular saw blade which is the best thing ever for steel studs. It is sort of smooth (no teeth) with kind of radial slots. I would cut the whole bundle of 10 studs in one go with that blade. Its fast, precise and much easier on your wrists than tin snips! The blade is around $10 Canadian
SEARS used to sell a blade like that they called a slicer. Don't see it in the current tool catalog though.
Gary
----------------------------------------------
Hey! Aren't you supposed to be working?
I'm not sure what lumber costs by you, but an 8' wood 2x4 costs about $2.38, but a steel stud at my local Home Depot costs $1.10/each.
I use lumber inside the door framing, but I never thought about the baseboards. How are yours installed? You can't use nails, is there such a thing as finish screws?
If anyone is interested, you can view my progress on my basement project here.
:: D A V E
:: g a t o r b o y
<font color="blue"> f anyone is interested, you can view my progress on my basement project here. </font color>
Looking good, Dave! Reminds me of how much I hate to put up drywall. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
Dave,
They are commonly called "trim screws". Have a standard shank but smaller head. Available at most drywall suppliers and at some of the box stores.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote