Finishing Basement/2X2 Lumber?

[BrianP]

Adjusting for exchange, $1.10 is roughly what a 2x4, steel or wood cost me.
Your project looks great. I added a 'U' channel in my studs because it stiffened the studs and makes everything stronger.
As for attaching trim, etc, there are two ways: you could use trim screws, which have heads the size of thos of fat finishing nails, or run a (eg) 3" strip of 1/2" plywood along the bottom instead of drywall. The pros use the screws.

[tdenny]

Okay,

you guys have sparked my curiosity. I think metal studs would be great for the basement that I should be working on right now. Couple of questions though:

1) How might one hang a Chair Rail or any other type of wainscotting?

2) How might one hang a plasma TV? (Not that I have one but someday........) [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

[tdenny]

I've thought of a couple more questions.

1) Is there an easy way to separate wiring through these studs? I've been told that you need to separate cable, phone, speaker, electrical wire for distortion etc...

2) Do you guys run your wiring in these guys through conduit?

Thanks. I really like this option.

[BrianP]

Wainscotting, chair rails, and so on are a piece of cake. Wainscotting can be glued and tacked, just like you would for a normal wall, and for chair rail you use those trim screws. A trim screw is a screw about the size of a fat finish nail. They have size 0 Robertson (square drive to you yanks who don't want to admit Mr. Robertson of Milton, Ontario developed the best screw) heads.

Even in the US, where Robertson screws are too scarce for your own good they sell these trim screws usually whereever they sell steel studs. You put one or two in to every stud along the chair rail. I would also apply a bead of construction adhesive to the rail.

Now, plasma. First, you shouldn't buy a plasma display: they are too expensive and the image quality is very poor [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] for the money. Wait until October and you'll be able to buy either a Digital Light Processor (DLP) or Liquid Crystal On Silicon (LCOS ) rear projection unit for less than half the cost of plasma. Actually you can buy them now, but the prices are going to plummet over the next couple years. These are actually semiconductors, so they will be really inexpensive. Plus the quality is much, much better than plasma or anything else you've ever seen [img]/forums/images/icons/cool.gif[/img] . And they only weight, like 100 pounds for a 60" set and are only a foot or so deep. If you don't have 16 inches depth in a room for a TV, you don't want a big TV.

But lets say you bought plasma anyway, even though you are going to regret it and you'll think back on old BrianP and how you should have listened to him. [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

Your choices with steel studs are:
1) Use a toggle bolt or the like, proviided you are very careful that you install it well; or
2) Slip a 2x4 inside the stud to give a place for the screw to 'bite'. This is a good idea for doorframes, except I usually make the doorframe 3" bigger than needed and fram the frame with 2x4s.

Remember for some bizarre reason steel studs are a bit thicker than 2x4s (they are, like 3 5/8 instead of 3 1/2 thick, so door jams & etc, have to be thought out.

The real problem with steel studs with regard supporting things like flat panels is that they are so thin there is little for the screw to bite in to, so screws put out if there is a 'pulling' load. The stud itself is quite strong, especially once drywalled and if you use U channels.

[BrianP]

Sheeshe, I write my post and already you've got another....

Wiring is a piece of cake because they come pre punched. You have to buy grommets for the holes unless you use BX or conduit, and at least here, you can use romex cable in non-commerical applications. Check your local code, but there is no reason to require any special treatment: you are far more likely to trip a breaker in a dangerous situation with steel studs than with wood, anyways. Plus they don't burn.

Code doesn't usually talk about low voltage, except you usually can't run low and high voltage together. So, just run the low voltage stuff through other of the prepunched holes. You can probably skip the grommet but I wouldn't. Vertical runs (through the top channels) I drill with a hole saw and use a grommet.

Its a good idea to run telephone, speaker and LAN separately from each other because the speaker and telephone will couple to the higher speed signals. Speakers will even pick up 60Hz unless shielded if the conditions are right (or wrong).

I used plastic electrical boxes with a sort of molded wing. They are much cheaper than the steel boxes for steel studs, obvioudly meet code, and are almost built to order: you stick them on with a few of the pan head screws you use for the studs and you are in business.

My inspector actually congratulated me on the job. It ain't hard.

[hazmat]

Another option for the Plasma TV is to use one of these
AVK Rivet nut

Rivet nuts are designed to give a threaded interface to thin sheet metal.

[tdenny]

Alright guys this is excellent information. BrianP by the time I actually get around to be able to affording the new TV for the basement I am surely going to find better options. Besides with the cost of finishing my basement it will be a long time. My basement is huge. I'm going to definitely use the metal studs.

Do you guys nail them to the floor just like the wood ones with the powder driven nails?

[Gatorboy]

Mine were put down with a 22-caliber nail gun.

[StanleyinMd]

Gatorboy, great photos! Looks like a "let's finish the basement so we get more money when we sell the house" project. Is that 12/2 wiring you are using, being yellow in color? How is your barn coming along? Any new photos? Suggestion on the basement window in the new house. When you have new windows installed in the basement place them a little lower than the sill plate. That way when you decide to finish THAT basement [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] you have room for a drop ceiling or drywall. It's much easier to frame out when it isn't butted right against the sill plate. Again, great photos.

[Gatorboy]

Yes, that is 12-2 wiring. I am putting in 20-amp outlets in this room. The exact purpose of this room has yet to be determined -- Hobby Room, Workshop, Guest Room, Office -- so I figured it wouldn't hurt to have it ready for any purpose. In addition, I have 2 cable outlets, 1 phone and 1 ethernet connection in the room as well.

Well, with the very wet late Fall, and the snow we've been having thus far this winter, my Pole Barn has been pushed back to Springtime.