Finishing Basement/2X2 Lumber?

[tdenny]

Dave,

did you just use standard insulation in your application? I usually staple the stuff in place when doing standard wood framing. What do you use for metal. I loved your basement pictures and think this is clearly the better (and yes cheaper is always good too) way to do my basement. Sorry for all the silly questions I just never thought I would be going this route so I didn't do any homework on the subject. [img]/forums/images/icons/confused.gif[/img]

[Inspector507]

Owens Corning makes a special size for steel stud walls. It is just a tad wider than the insulation for wood studs.

Jerry

[Phred]

I am not a pro but I used metal studs through out my home.
Worked great and I love the final results.

In my area they are about the same maybe a little cheaper than wood but,
I can carry ten 12' metal studs by myself.
I use a chop saw and can cut a stack of them to length in one go.
Use a screw gun to lock it all togheter so its supper fast to slam up a wall.
They don't burn and termites are not a problem.

However, as mentioned they are not as strong prior to drywall installation. You can bend them.
But two gauges are available. Most home centers only have the 25 gauge which is supper weak until you get the rock up. It then becomes pretty solid.
I started with 25 gauge and then quickly shifted to 20 gauge. Much stronger and all the problems with mounting cabinets etc.. go away.
For the base board I predrilled and then used screws. Works well but more work that a nailer used in wood construction.

EMT conduit is a great way to do electrical in steel framing but cost more in time and conduit.


Also check with your supplier on the width issue. You can buy 20 or 25 gauge studs that in combination with 1/2" rock will give you a standard wall thickness. If you use 5/8 rock then a little trim creativity is needed aroud the doors.

Also watch the wall height. They only sell 25 gauge in 12' or smaller lengths for a reason becasue the walls are not stable at taller heights. As I recall 20 gauge is good to 14' or 16' which should be good enough for most residential uses. They make heavier studs for taller walls.

http://www.unimast.com/
my two cents....

Fred

[RobS]

Well I spent the morning boxing in duct work and plumbing with 2X2s. Mixed results as some of you have mentioned. They are easier/lighter to work with and most of my work has been with lengths less than a couple of feet. They do split more than 2X4s and I had to replace a couple. In the end, I think all will be fine and I saved a few trees and a few bucks. I'll stick with 2X4s for the main wall framing and such. No experience with metal though it sounds pretty straightforward.

Dave, your pictures are impressive. Nice work [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[Gatorboy]

Rob,

I never used steel studs before myself. I must say, they are alot easier to work with -- you might want to give it a try, just for the heck of it. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

I finished with putting up all my drywall this morning. My next stage is taping.

[BrianP]

I used to use tapcon screws, however anything that makes a hole in concrete is a little hazardous when you've got radiant floor heating, like I have.

Now, I just use polyurethane construction adhesive. I first used the stuff on a temporary base for temporary kitchen cabinets. I had to use a sledge hammer and a chisle to get the 2x4s off. Some concrete even came with them.

So, I experimented with steel tuds an they hold real good. Just make sure they are cleaned, because some have a thin coat of oil on them. Clean the floor and dampen the floor before applying. If it makes you feel better, put a pin (nail or screw) into the floor on either side of door openings.

[tdenny]

BrianP,

you mentioned something about U channels. What exactly are you refering to here? Thanks.

[BrianP]

If you look at the metal studs you will notice a rectanglar hole punched in the middle of the stud at about 16", 48", and 72" for an 8 foot stud. In addition there are a few round holes punched, these hold gromets for the electricals.

The U channel snaps into these rectangual holes. U channel is fairly heavy guage metal with a U cross section that is about 1.25" by .5". and sold in 10 foot lengths. You slide the channel through a set of thos holes (at least the 48" high ones), holding the channel at an angle. Once its in place, push it down so it kind of press fits into place.

This does a few things: it lines up all the metal studs, it reduces the sound transmission, and it makes the wall feel and sound stronger. It you want to go all the way, put U channels in all the square holes, but the middle one makes the most difference.

I also filled my walls with mineral wool fire and acoustic insulation which improves the sense of strength as well.

BrianP

[tdenny]

BrianP,

Did you use the 20 or the 25 guage? I can get either out here in 3.5 inch or 3 5/8 inch. I'm going to purchase my studs next week. The 20 guage is clearly much cheaper but that's not really a huge factor. I just want to do it right. My basement walls are all going to be 9 footers. Last question, I think [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img], did you get a saw blade for your chop saw/skill saw or do you just use snips? Thanks for all your help.

[BrianP]

I don't know the gage I used, I didn't have a choice. I would probably use the thickest stuff, just in case I wanted to hang something on the wall. Again, if I had a choice, I would probably use 3 1/2" material because all door jambs, etc., are sized for 2 x 4s, meaning 1 1/2 x 3 1/2, not 3 5/8. Believe me, dealing with the extra 1/8" makes a difference, and its a pain.

You must have good suppliers in your neck of the woods to have such a choice.

In terms of cutting, I didn't have much success with snips. Its hard to cut nice and square, and my arm got really sore really quickly. I looked at a cut off saw, then I spotted the Dewalt sheet metal blade I (think I) mentioned above. I figured what the heck, $10 (Canadian, US $6) is worth a try. I stuck it in my circular saw and it works like a dream. I found it worked best when I cut a bundle of 10 studs all at once. Lots of noise, etc., but a nice clean cut, and fast as well.

I would use that instead of an abrasive chop saw any day. I'll have to find another excuse to get the chop saw. [img]/forums/images/icons/smirk.gif[/img]