Well, as I said, Just My Humble Opinion, and Your Mileage May Vary. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] My advice was based on my experience in electronic repair techniques, which, on reflection, probably don't cross over to soldering copper pipes all that well...
I have a fair amount of experience in electronic soldering, having been an instructor in High Reliability Soldering and certified in both miniature and microminiature repair.
Granted, this has little or nothing to do with sweating pipes together, but one of the basic concepts is that more heat applied for a shorter time creates a better joint than less heat over a longer time. Many people inadvertently ruin electronic components by "heat soaking" the area surrounding the repair. Another concept that was pounded into us was that NOTHING should move before the joint has cooled.
If you're getting good, solid watertight joints with a propane torch and a wet rag, then you've accomplished your goal.
The only thing I would add is to test it.
Not hard a pressure gauge, tire air valve, and a compressor are needed.
Inflate to 100 psi.
If it is still at 100 psi 24 hrs latter then you did a very good job.
Try doing a few practice joints in the sun so you can see the color change. The cleaned copper will turn a bit darker when it is ready for solder. You might also try tinning flux, that has a small amount of solder mixed in with the flux. While heating, all of a sudden the flux will take on a slight silver color, and that means you're at the proper temperature.
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