Shop setup and tools.

[egon]

Pat
With the disc sander on the radial arm saw be advised that the mastic holding the sand paper to the metal disk can become hot and lose adhesion if used improperly. The resulting " twack " of the sand paper hitting your midsection is not really a pleasant sensation or one which is looked forward to.

Welding shops have portable stand screens.[ safety codes to prevent flash ] They may be made of anything from plywood to canvas on a castered frame. Metal roofing on a frame with casters may be one way to go or tarps hung from the ceiling with a rollup feature may be another thought.

Egon

[WVBill]

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
This new shop will be attached to the house like an attached garage and the garage will be at the other end of it away from the house.

[/ QUOTE ]

Pat: Just one thought on this subject - because I've been there...

If you are going to have your shop attached to the house, you will have to deal with the fact that the noise of your power tools IS going to "get into the house". There's no way I know of to noise insulate for a radial arm saw, skill saw, or a planer for example.

I had my woodworking tools in an attached garage one time. I like to get up early and work in the shop. My (then) wife liked to sleep late. It was an issue. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

[Pat]

beenthere, I'm sorry to have mislead you. I have tools of various ages but was never very serious about wood butchering or the associated implements of destruction until I spent a year prepping "My Old House" for sale. Being 1928 California, I had to deal with various bug damage, rot, cracked plaster (with horse hair for strength). I bought a joiner to help in rebuilding windows. I had earlier bought an old Craftsman cast iron radial arm saw with a host of accessories in the drawers of its cabinet/stand. This was when I built a redwood enclosure for a Jacuzzi. Started with rough redwood posts and made them into slotted octagons to accept tongue and groove fencing and so forth. It has accessory for making molding.

I have accumulated much of what you guys indicate I should have. I need to add a planer, band saw, and dust collector for sure. Shaper, biscuit hole cutter, and some air tools for small brads, staples, and such and maybe some workbench mounted sanders. I will be building a good workbench or two. If two, at least one will be on wheels.

I never had a master plan, just sort of bought what was needed at the time. I was not focused on woodworking. I was task oriented and needs driven.

Now I am trying to get ahead of the power curve and gear up for more serious and generalized wood working. I enjoy doing stuff with wood and with a new house just getting started I have a chance to offset the cost of acquisition of tools by diverting $ from trim carpenter's pockets and cabinet maker's pockets into my shop's tool inventory. I realize the tradeoffs AND my skill limitations. I hope to find tradesmen who will be sympathetic and settle for part of the pie and let me do what I can. Failing that, I'll just do it myself. It might take longer but I am confident I can do "good enough."

I let DIY labor buy my tools for working on cars. My labor + the cost of tools, often was not more than the cost of a simple repair. So I accumulated "car" tools. At one point I was quite competent to swap the cam and lifters (mechanical to hydraulic or vice versa) in a 221/260/289/302 Ford V-8. Not record setting "pitstop" speed but not too slow either. I'm hoping for a similar success with wood.

Pat

[Pat]

beenthere, I'm sorry to have mislead you. I have tools of various ages but was never very serious about wood butchering or the associated implements of destruction until I spent a year prepping "My Old House" for sale. Being 1928 California, I had to deal with various bug damage, rot, cracked plaster (with horse hair for strength). I bought a joiner to help in rebuilding windows. I had earlier bought an old Craftsman cast iron radial arm saw with a host of accessories in the drawers of its cabinet/stand. This was when I built a redwood enclosure for a Jacuzzi. Started with rough redwood posts and made them into slotted octagons to accept tongue and groove fencing and so forth. It has accessory for making molding.

I have accumulated much of what you guys indicate I should have. I need to add a planer, band saw, and dust collector for sure. Shaper, biscuit hole cutter, and some air tools for small brads, staples, and such and maybe some workbench mounted sanders. I will be building a good workbench or two. If two, at least one will be on wheels.

I never had a master plan, just sort of bought what was needed at the time. I was not focused on woodworking. I was task oriented and needs driven.

Now I am trying to get ahead of the power curve and gear up for more serious and generalized wood working. I enjoy doing stuff with wood and with a new house just getting started I have a chance to offset the cost of acquisition of tools by diverting $ from trim carpenter's pockets and cabinet maker's pockets into my shop's tool inventory. I realize the tradeoffs AND my skill limitations. I hope to find tradesmen who will be sympathetic and settle for part of the pie and let me do what I can. Failing that, I'll just do it myself. It might take longer but I am confident I can do "good enough."

I let DIY labor buy my tools for working on cars. My labor + the cost of tools, often was not more than the cost of a simple repair. So I accumulated "car" tools. At one point I was quite competent to swap the cam and lifters (mechanical to hydraulic or vice versa) in a 221/260/289/302 Ford V-8. Not record setting "pitstop" speed but not too slow either. I'm hoping for a similar success with wood.

Thanks again to you and the other respondents for the benefit of your experience.

Pat

[Pat]

Egon, Thanks for the "Graphic" warning. I have never used that accessory but will be careful when/if I do. How is it different from other disk sanders? Are they subject to the same "gotcha?"

I've seen the movable screens with colored plastic to reduce the arc light and some canvas screens. I suppose you could treat the screens with fireproofing like waterglass (sodium silicate) but sheet metal seems to be a better answer. I like your suggestion about metal panel source. I'll check the price against flat thin galvanized sheet metal.

Pat

[Pat]

Bill, Thanks for the warning. I want my "now" wife to stay. The master suite is at the other end of the house and will have steel reinforced concrete walls, floor, and ceiling and a FEEMA approved safe room door. The door to the master suite is about 50 ft from the closest part of the shop. I think that should provide sufficient acoustic attenuation except in the unlikely event that the door between the sitting room and bedroom is open (another FEMA door), the windows in the stiting room are open, and the windows of the shop are open. This would let more sound get from the "machines" to her ears. Lately she has been springing out of bed before me (not historically typical) and getting on the computer to do spreadsheets.

A glance at the floor plan would explain it. The noise would have to traverse several doors/walls and saferoom/master suite. Note the entry way into the master suite has yet another right angle turn. I suppose some acoustical treatment on the appropriate walls would further reduce the acoustic transfer if it were a problem. Ask me in a year or so.

Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[wingnut]

Pat,

when I built my shop, I opted for the full "insulate and soundproof" game so that I could (eventually) use it year 'round ... and not unnecissarily annoy the neighbors or the wife. I'm slowly enclosing all my tools to make the dust collection more effective AND deaden the sound.
I looked at the costs of wiring the eight blastgates with switches to the individual machines and opted for a $50 remote instead ... less wiring, fewer chances of a problem (it IS a shop and stuff gets moved). I have one 32 foot wall with a 2 foot wide bench down the length and hung pegboard on that whole wall ... just ripped some lath (it's not like it has to be away fro mthe wall THAT far) and put 'er up. Left enough room at the top to run the dust collector pipe between the pegboard and ceiling. I'm having so much fun just building and equipping that I still haven't done any woodworking (other than starting to build cabinets for under the bench. Next purchase to sneak past the CFO, finally, is the jointer ... I mistakingly opted for the planer the first time ... that should finish off the major tool purchases. Warning ... do not go to woodworking shows to find out what's new or how things are used .... leads to major impulse buys (I have a $400 Incr jog that hasn't been unboxed yet ... although I did watch the video [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img] )

pete

pete

[egon]

{ Are they subject to the same "gotcha?" }

Probably not. I had the disc horizontal and was using it to level off some glued up wood panels. Not really how they should be used.

Egon

[egon]

PAT:

[ It has accessory for making molding. ]

I have a moulding head for my radial arm saw. Just thinking of ever using it it again gives me the shakes.

Egon

[jtd]

My wife insisted my new shop be over 200 feet from the house and garage so I wouldn't take the garage over for wood storage, etc. Noise wasn't her major concern.