The snow is starting to melt. Got to put my new spreader to use.
I've got 2 acres of lawn to fertilize. It's been neglected for who knows how long, so I plan on 4 ferts this year, .5# N per 1,000 sq feet in spring. and Three more feedings at 1# per 1K (Mem day, Labor Day, and fall - Oct/Nov). Next year reduce it to 2-3.
Anyway, where do y'all get your fert? $35 for a 15,000 sq ft bag (~40-50#) of Scotts is waaay too much. Don't think I can convince the wife that we need to spend $800 for fertilizer. I'm going to price it at Lesco & Agway. Unfortunatley buying it by the ton isn't practical. Any other suggestions?
>>Don't think I can convince the wife that we need to spend $800
I don't think you could convince me either [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] , wow $800 for 2 acres does sound like quite a lot...guess thats why I never fertilize mine...I do occaissonally spread in some decent compost, but I really don't mind the weeds...keep them mowed and they look a lot like grass [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
Let us know what you find out...if there was a cheap/non-toxic formula available..maybe I could be convinced too....
Snow...what a concept. Been having to mow twice a week lately out here (CA). I'm scared to fertilize the lawn [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img].
But I picked up some "generic" fertilizer at Home Depot that ran something like $15 / 50#. Worked fine, and was about half the cost of the brand name. Still not cheap, but not quite as bad.
Stopped in at Lowes the other day. They had 29-2-5, 54# for $17. That would mean $400 for the year. Still a bit expensive. Might have to rethink the plan -- only hit it twice.
The $35 scotts includes crabgrass preventor aka "Halts"
Have you done a soil test yet? You should check it before you start dumping a lot of N on the soil. If you're looking to increase fertility over the long term, using Scotts type fertilizer won't get the job done. This type fertilizer will juice your lawn, get it green in a hurry and also poison a lot of the life in your soil. You'll end up with a chemically dependent lawn which will be fragile and weak.
Just a suggestion, but why not: test your soil, use some slow release fertilizers, let your grass grow a little longer this summer to shade out the weeds and also reduce stress on the grass itself, water as needed and in the fall start spreading some compost around the yard. You won't have a picture perfect lawn this year, but you'll be building a good base for the future.
When i lived in our village a few years ago and fertilized 1 acre with just Chase Pitkin brand weed,feed and grub. It is their own mixture and worked great. No weeds,grubs and my lawn was perfectly green. You could see any spots that was missed. I use to do a lighter application than they said and make two passes. I got better coverage that way. I didnt do my back yard and the spreader would look empty on the way to my barn to put it away. There would be a nice green strip to the barn. looked funny and was so easy to see. Thats how good that brand worked. I dont know what kind of grass i had though. Just your typical lawn in NY [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] It was no where near the price for Scotts or other brands.
Larry
The soil will be tested, still waiting for the snow to melt [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] . The measure of N in a soil test isn't very usefull as it is very volatile. It is only usefull if the number is extreme (high or low). The univeristies advise that you add the recommended amounts of N each year based on your crop (grass or otherwise) Umass soil test results .
I do plan on using a slow release N fertilizer. The university sites (Cornell & U Illonois) state that compost & manure, while good as soil ammendments, take an enormous amount to add the N that the grass needs. If I remember correclty bagged compost or steer manure is about 2% nitrogen vs. the typically 30% that a lawn fertilizer contains. Fescue requries 2#/1,000 sq feet per year. kentucky bluegrass requires 4+#/1,000 sq feet.
I worry more about pesticides & herbicides than I do chemical fertilzers. From what I read, if you feed your lawn the fertilizer it needs, it will minimize the amount of herbicides as the weeds can't get a hold in the well-established & healthy lawn.
The grass is cut at 3-4" depending on the weather (lower in spring & fall, taller in July/August). It is not watered (except when part was newly re-seeded)
I know very little about trying to make my lawn grow. I also know about as much about how it should look since I live in the middle of a very rural area. But I am learning about growing a good stand of grass over the past 15 years. Get a soil sample! Find out what conditions your choosen grass likes and go to the local farm store and get what it takes. Triple 19 is about $200 a ton and fert. with less N is 20 to 40 dollars less. That is about $5 a bag. The most I have priced is 6 per bag and they don't care if you take 1 bag or 15 tons. That's one reason I changed suppliers this year. I am not sure but I think there are only a couple of manufactures of the fert. componets in the U.S..
Good luck with whatever you go with, especially with the weather.
Called Lesco (Lawn Equipment Supply Company) Today. 28-5-12 fert is $12.95 per 50# bag. Plus 20% off sale on everything this week. I'll be stopping by tomorrow afternoon to purchase the year's worth. Not living in an agricultural area, I think this is the best I can do.
They do soil tests as well. Don't know what the turnaround time is on the test, but I will bring the dirt tomorrow, hoping I can work some kind of deal, ie: I get the 20% off pending the results of the soil test? We'll see what happens.
Reply With Quote
