Just a couple notes on the Hobart 175 I thought I'd share with you. While the Hobart 175 Handler is a 220V MIG welder, you can run it on a 30 amp breaker and wire from that to your outlet with only 10/2 wire. I got this directly from Hobart and wanted to pass it on to you as most 220V welders require a 50 amp breaker and a heavier gauge wire to the outlet. While I don't think this is anything upon which to base a purchase decision, I thought it was something you might like to know.
Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
Gary,......that business of running on a 30 AMP circuit as opposed to a 50 AMP is true when you go to wire feed welders. When I first got my Miller wire feed machine we were sharing a single outlet with the stick welder. One day I was in a hurry do do some wire welding and the stick machine was busy, plugged into the "welder" outlet. I took the Miller welder primary lead across the shop and plugged into a 20AMP outlet we had for the hacksaw, and welded for an hour or more on that 20 AMP breaker with no trip. Of course I wasn't really at the top end of the heat range, but still...... [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] Regarding material thicknesses.......when you are welding two pieces of material, you have to be able to put enough heat into the area to "FUSE" the metal. No matter how many passes you make, if the material is taking the heat away too fast, you'll never get good penetration and a good joint. Remember that the FIRST PASS is the one that hooks to the parent material, if you don't have enough heat for that pass, you're screwed anyway. [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] I've run into this with stick welders; where the mtal was SO THICK that I couldn't get enough heat built up to really burn my weld in there like it needed to be. A large cross-section will transport so much heat away from your weld that you just cannot get the puddle to really be good and hot like it needs to be. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Multiple passes are only effective if you can "re-puddle" to a certain extent. Running beads on top of beads that aren't burned in sufficiently may not hold very well. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
Most all my questions have been answered and I've decided to get the Hobart 175 [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] However, today I was forced to buy a welding torch kit (on sale $99), a set of 80# tanks ($325) [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]
A lot of the things I need to do are repairs which some invlove cutting and the couple things that need mending right now I believe I can braze (sp?) since there won't be any direct stress on it. However I will need a welder in the near future.
BTW Richard, I have been trucking in one form or another for 18 yrs and owned my truck & trailer for the last 7 yrs. (paid for). I do specialized hauling (machinery,equipment, military & oversized) on a dropdeck. So as you see... I'm not your average dummy.. LOL [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
Dear Handy Plus Man,.....write these numbers on your shop wall: Cut: 40 Oxy & 8 Acet. Weld: 33 Oxy & 13 Acet. Those are the necessary regulator settings. One more tip....when using a rosebud, start with 33/13 on the settings, and then once the tip is going, open the mixer valves full open and regulate the flame by adjusting the tank regulators. If you have cheapie regulators or very small ones, don't be surprised if the Oxy frosts up a bit on big rosebud work. [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] BE SURE to have backfalsh valves in the system. I like the ones that go out at the end of the hose......gives me something to hang onto while I adjust the mixer valves. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
I'm glad to hear from you HANDYMAN.I am aware of the fact that you are no average dummy.One question I have is what the hell does BTW mean? I wanted to know because I might want to use it sometime.Don't run over any little cars. RICHARD GAUTHIER
That explanation of fusing the metals and getting them up to the temperatures needed to do so was excellent. I felt like I was reading a text of what my welding instructor told us. Thanks for saying what I should have. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] I'm still very much on the low end of the learning curve here. I knew it, I just didn't think to pass it along. [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] It's probably just as well. Your explanation was far better than anything I'd have written. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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