The Asphalt shingle roof (3:12 Pitch, 1/2" OS deck on 2' centers) on my 7 year old Doublewide is shot. Which option would you go with:
1. Remove old shingles and replace with Asphalt shingles
2. Shingle over existing shingles
3. Add 1 x4 purlins 2' on Center and use metal roofing
Thanks John
banzaitoyota
You need to fill in your profile so we have some idea of where you live. Why are asphalt shingles wore out after only 7 years? Are you sure they were asphalt shingles or maybe a low grade fiberglass? Given the corner cutting that DW manufacturers use, it wouldn't surprise me if they were close out fiberglass.
Is your DW located near trees? 3:12 is a rather flat pitch, but then again it depends on what part of the country you live in.
Fill us in with some more information so we can help you.
Argee [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
You might want to talk to your insurance agent, the manufacturer of the home, and/or any local building permit authorities. One of my daughters is having the roofing replaced on her 6 year old doublewide as a result of hail damage, and every roofer she talked to said they are not allowed to shingle over existing shingles, but will have to strip it off, new tar paper, and new shingles. I forgot to ask whether it was the home manufacturer or the local city authority that required that. The metal roof is even better; costs more, but insurance premiums are then less afterwards.
I agree that if the 7 years is on a new unit and not just how long you've had it, you should contact the manufacturer first.
A small word of caution - the rafters on those units can be nothing more than 1" stock on some models, 2x4 trusses (better) on others. My only experience with DW roofing was on a unit maybe 20 years old, so I may be out to lunch, but weight is a big issue. I would definitely strip, and while I was at it, get a look at what was under there.
No info in your profile, but If you live in a snowy area, you need to be careful about roof loading. If you are snowy, you may want to consider the metal option to allow the snow to slide off better.
If you are thinking about doing this, and doing it yourself, and want to put the money into it, you may want to consider a rebuilt roof with a better pitch, say 6/12 at least. You need to see what you have for walls, especially what kind of plate strength and how you would tie into it. You definitely want trusses, whether manufactured or site built, and not rafters that would push out the walls.
Keep us posted.
I am in Aiken SC, Insurance has already cut a check for replacement. The house is located in full sun, no shade from any trees. Snow loading is not a problem.
Good! Glad to hear it! Thanks for the update.
John,
If you check inside the cabinets over the stove, or under the sink, or on the wall of the master bedroom closet, or on the cover of the breaker box, you should find a piece of paper glued there (8x10 size). It should be in one of those locations, but it could be anywhere in the unit. It will have a map of the US and a lot of serial numbers on it for things like the water heater, furnace, etc. It will also have information on roof loading and insulation levels. When you find it, don't remove it, it is getting more and more important to have this piece of paper.
I agree with the others, tear off and reshingle, and get a good look at what is underneath. 7 years is not very long for shingles, but it depends on location, weather, grade of shingles, and how they were installed.
Steve
tear off and reshingle. metal 'shingles' are too expensive to justify based on life expectancy.
Your shingles could have died due to a poor quality shingles, or due to poor attic venting (which cooks 'em) or not applying a layer of tarpaper before shingling.
Or, it could just be bad luck.
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