Hello mr. bird and all other impact wrench type people.I'm getting ready to buy a new impact wrench and I am thinking on getting the IR-2131A,which northern tool has for 189.99.One of the main reasons I am getting it is to remove my brushog blades,its supposed to have 600 ft.lbs. in reverse and 450 in forward. #1,will this be enough to remove the blades?What are they torqued at?I will call king kutter,I heard on here someplace it was 500 or 600 lbs,sound right?#2,What kind of torque settings does it have on it,from what ft.lbs to the max and how does it adjust,and wonder what the lowest setting is?It would be nice to use it for something else,if you know what I mean. My compessor puts out 5.7 scrm at 90 psi,so that won't be any problem,the 2131a it says needs4.8. Also does any body know if these bolts are righty tighty,I could call kinkkutter to find that out also,was just wondering if anybody out there knew from experience. thankyou, RICHARD GAUTHIER
Are you kidding me, Richard, or did you really not see the thread on this topic on TBN? [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
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will this be enough to remove the blades?What are they torqued at
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I don't know. [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] Depends on how tight they were torqued at the factory, how long it's been since they were removed, and how rusty they are, but I'd say there's much better than a 90% chance that it'll take them off with no problem.
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What kind of torque settings does it have on it,from what ft.lbs to the max and how does it adjust,and wonder what the lowest setting is
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It adjusts with a dial type knob on the back end, and now I've forgotten whether it's 3 or 4 positions. No manufacturer that I know of advertises or states what the lower limits are because it depends on how much air pressure you have at the time, how much volume gets through the lines, and how long you hold the trigger. Some of the manufacturers do list a "working" torque range, but I don't recall seeing that for the IR2131. I think most impact wrenches have that "working" range measured with the lowest and highest power setting with a 5 second blast of 90 psi air. You can buy an instrument that only allows a 5 second air flow and cuts off the air automatically. Then the "ultimate" power is rated with the highest power setting and holding the trigger until it just doesn't do anything else. All the power adjustments amount to on any impact wrench I know of is a valve that reduces the size of the intake to the air motor; i.e., reduces the volume of air allowed through. Some do that with a separate valve (as the IR2131) and some by simply not letting the trigger go all the way back; i.e., don't let the throttle valve open all the way.
You can certainly reduce power even further by turning down the air pressure if you have a pressure regulator on your compressor. So it's entirely possible to reduce the torque of the wrench to anything you want right down to zero. [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] But it's just about impossible to know exactly what torque you're setting it for.
My experience has been that most mechanics never even mess with the adjustment on the wrench; just leave it set for max power and turn the trigger loose quicker when they don't want to get it too tight. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]
Yes mr. bird,I looked around on the search thing last night but I figured I'd bother you any ways,huh,huh.I bet they are righty tighty?Any body know what size that nut is,seems to me like somebody in that search said 1 11/16",but I'm not sure what mower he was talking about,mine is a standard duty kingkutter,I don't want to buy any more large sockets than I need to for air anyways.One other question,they make these extended anvil type impact wrenchs,looks like they could come in handy,maybe not have to use an extension?Whats the draw backs with these? RICHARD GAUTHIER
NOW I SEE WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT.I just flipped over to tbn and lordy lordy,impact stories everywhere.Most of these wasn't done when I asked this question on here,thanks mr. bird. RICHARD GAUTHIER
Richard, the extended anvil (usually 2" longer than the standard one, although some models can be found up to at least 6") are popular with mechanics who do a lot of tire work. They use reversible sockets so that one socket fits two sizes of lug nuts. The only drawback that I know to them is that the longer tool won't fit into some tight places if you're working around engines, have to raise a mower deck higher maybe to get to the nut on the bottom of the blades, etc., and you can expect to pay $10 to $20 more for the longer anvil. Otherwise the tool is the same, and of course, you can buy a spare anvil and change them out if you wanted to. I don't know anyone who'd want to have both and keep disassembling the tool to change them, but I did have a number of customers send me impacts who wanted to change to the shorter or longer anvil, depending on which one they had at the time.
I think after reading all this stuff,I'm going to get the IR-2131 with 2' extended anvil,out of the northern tool catalogue for 199.99 plus tax and shipping,one drawback to living out in the HINTON area is if you want anything you got to drive for an hour to princeton or beckley,and than most of the time in something like this you got to have them order it but first you got to tell them that it costs this much somewhere else and you won't pay what they wanted to begin with,so...it is generaly just as cheap to order something and than haveups bring it to your carport and talk to you about bees or deer hunting.thanks again mr. bird, RICHARD GAUTHIER
Steve, they're actually not too bad. I see that Sears has a 3 piece set that includes one of the "flip sockets" for $39.99. You have to have the longer anvil, since the 1/2" square that the anvil fits into is in the middle of the socket instead of one end.
Richard, I don't know whether they sell any new air tools or not, but if you ever need any parts or repairs on one, or expert advice far superior to mine, try Air Tech, Inc. in Beckley. Tell Molly, Craig, and Doug I sent you.
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