I learned years ago mechanicin' that the only way to check U- joints is to pull the driveshaft so you can move them through their range of motion. If you have a loose U- joint you ran it through the tight, dry (as in no grease) stage ignoring the vibration.
Ironically the vibration started last night on my way home. I'll drive the car the next 2 days and I'll pull it Saturday and change. Everybody kept asking me if I was getting a vibration and I kept saying no - because I wasn't. Am now though. Shouldn't be a big deal to change them. Dad build a press a few years ago to keep from having to beat them out.
Finally decided to replaced the u-joints yesterday. When we took the drive shaft out. it was the front ones (in the rear shaft) that were bad. Two of the caps were completely dry and the little pins had completely disappeared. On the back one 2 of the caps were pretty dry and it wouldn't have been long. Started to replace with front w/ the u-joints I had picked up from NAPA. Wrong u-joints they were to big. Since NAPA runs their own schedule I then went to advance to get something. Nothing they had in the book was the right size. Ended up having to go w/ ones the book listed as being for the front drive shaft of a Suburban. Good, got 2 of them and went home. Put them in, but couldn't get the drive shaft to stay in place on the rear axle. Turns out the caps that go into the axle are bigger. Had to run back to Advance - just made it they were locking the doors as I got there. Had to get another joint w/ 2 different size caps. Came home, took rear one back out and put the one w/ the different size caps back in. The new ones at least have grease fittings. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] too bad I've either got to get a grease gun w/ a smaller fitting or remove the drive shaft to grease them [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img] . But it eliminated my squaking, clicking, and my vibration. Drives (and sounds) like a new truck again.
I'm approaching 2500 miles now on mine and I've done some pretty heavy jerking w/ the 4wd (since I replaced the joints even [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img] ). But I have a 2 things come up. The other day when I was pulling the tractor out I had it in low lock and went back to tractorin'. Wife came down the road said truck wouldn't go out of 4wd. I figured the new switch was acting up. Told her to get out so I could see. Put the truck in neutral and away it went. She was like "What did you do?" - my reply "Put the truck in neutral like you are supposed to do when changing ranges." I've told her that a hundred times. Still don't know how she got turned out of the driveway and going down the road w/o breaking something - this one wasn't the trucks fault. The other one is. I can't get the new switch to put the transfer case in neutral. I tried when we put the u-joints in. Just sits there. I'm not too worried about as I've never used it anyway. If I would have to have the truck towed I would have it hauled on a rollback. At least I don't have an irritating service light on.
I had a 96 that would do that then it suddenly started down shifting into 4wd hi and then once going 80 it tried locking into 4wd lo if it had syncronized it'd locked up and probaly flipped or who knows what.
I'm a ase mechanic and determined that the wiring harness near the front axle where it hooks to the harness was getting wet and caused it..
Jim, I've been pretty busy lately and haven't had time to keep up here at CBN. I haven't had the light come on in a long time, a couple thousand miles of no problems. I also haven't used 4WD in a long time.
My luck ran out. The light came on today after 2852 miles of no problems. I used 4-Lo in the yard one day last week and then again yesterday. I worked perfect both times and shifted in and out of 4WD again with no problems. I towed my tractor on a trailer about 20 miles this morning, then towed the trailer back empty and shut the truck off and unhooked the trailer. I drove the pickup about 6 more miles, then out of the blue the "Service 4WD" light came on. [img]/forums/images/icons/confused.gif[/img]
I have a 2000 Silverado that just exhibited the same problem, but now all lights are out and 4 x 4 doesn't engage. I pulled the switch out, removed the cover, and found pin connector solder joints broken. Could be cause of intermittent. Made that repair but still no lights and no 4 x 4. Any suggestions?
If you could find somebody else that had one I would see if I could borrow their switch for about 15 minutes to see if that did anything. Otherwise before I spent too much time trouble shooting for $40 I would replace the switch - as long as you have power at the switch. If no power going to the switch all bets are off and I have no clue.
Well, it's been over 4 months now and the light hasn't come on. I used 4WD several times through the winter and it always worked perfect. I guess I just won't worry about the light.
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