I built over a 1000' of welded pipe horse fence around part of my pasture. I made the top rail at 52" to 54" off the ground. Anything taller looked aesthetically displeasing. However, for a little extra height, I've seen people put a hot wire along the top using the insulators that have the bracket for chainlink fence (From TSC) If you attach it to the top rail (in my case tack weld it) and point it straight up it gives you about an additional 6" of height. The electric wire helps prevent the horses from using the top rail to scratch and pushing the fence out of whack.
Regarding following the contors of the land: I set all of the poles and then run 100' of string where the top rail will be. You don't want to follow every dip and hump in the land, the top rail would look ugly. I just keep stepping back and adjusting the string height to give the best look, while approximating the 52" to 54" desired height. Some points along the top rail may be greater and some less then the 52" to 54". I mark the height on all of the poles and then move the string to the next 100 foot stretch and repeat.
I guess everyone else seems to think taller is better, but I agree with you. I've always heard the figure 54" for the typical horse fence. That's even the default figure mentioned by RAMM fence in their installation manuals for their high tension PVC fencing. From the fences I've built this seems just about right for a three rail fence. If I was doing 4 rails I might go a little higher (58" or 60") so the rails would be properly spaced to look good. I figure if a horse is willing to jump 54" they'd just as soon go through it (if it's wood) [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
I've been told the same thing about black walnuts and horses. I've also been told the same concerning red maple leaves, when they fall off in autumn. I don't know if there's any truth to the red maple. We don't have many of them in N. Texas.
An interesting thing about black walnut trees is that they actually produce a type of herbicide from their root system that prevents competing vegetation. It's amazing, the power of evolution and survival of the fittest.
Thanks for the reply. I wish I would have asked these questions a little earlier before I started this project, but I have learned alot from the advice that I have been given. I have just about completed the install of the 4X4 posts and rails, and am working now on the part of the fence where it meets the small stream that I have on the property. I have only put one screw in each rail, so that I can go back and readjust the rails to give it a uniform look.
I will have to use the backhoe attachment I have to remove alot of the overgrown brush that has taken over the stream area. That will be my project this weekend, and then I should be able to them put in the remaining 6 posts.
I agree with and have done all of the things in your post, I especially agree with the comment about the fence looking too tall when it is over 54".
I guess 54" vs. 60" has to do with whether you are concerned about looks or you are concerned about safety and not having horses lean over the fence. Colorado State Univ. did a couple studies on horse fence height. 60" was found to be the height that most horses would not attempt to jump. 54" they would attempt it. Also at 60" horses will not lean over the fence. The 60" was said to be a psychological barrier to horses whereas smaller than 60" did not have the barrier effect.
I guess it has something to do with the size of the horses too, especially for the leaning over the fence part. You perspective might be a little different if you own some of those Mack truck warmbloods [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
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