Options for T111 Siding

[jtcweb]

Where do you buy your Smart Panels? I live in Ypsilanti so I must be near you.

[TimSullivan]

<font color="blue"> Here in Upstate NY, alot of pole barns get covered in rough-cut lumber. I am building a pole barn with a board and batten pattern, and the lumber is about 45 cents/bf delivered. Looking at t-111 prices, the 3/8 stuff is about $18/sheet, which is equivalent to 56 cents/bf, and the 5/8 is $27.50/sheet, or 86 cents/bf. I am planning to leave the lumber natural, but obviously you could paint/stain it, too. Low/no maintenance is my concern. BTW, the silver-grey color that wood gets if left unfinished can actually be washed off with a pressure washer, leaving the wood with the "new" blond color if you want to keep that look. Just another alternative to consider - there should be plenty of local mills in your neck of the woods.
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Last year we built a pole barn and used green rough cut 5/4 inch hemlock. We are going to stain it this week. It is a great material and makes for a solid barn. One thing we did was wait to put the battens on until the wood dried out. Also put a layer of air infiltration wrap to help to weather seal it. The wrap does a great job and makes the barn easier to heat. I use it as a shop in the cold months.

[pault]

I am just about to start my barn. The posts go up on Saturday [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] . I plan to use something the lumber yard called Impregnated Sheathing between the girts and the rough cut. I believe I have seen this before - 1/2 thick 4x8 sheets, with a black, tar-like substance impregnated on one side. Makes a good vapor barrier and has a minor r factor (r1). Basically using it as a wind break. Its only $5.50 per sheet, so its pretty economical. I'll also use this between the purlins and the metal roof to eliminate sweating. Do you think that I should also use the tyvek wrap on the sides if I do this? How much would tyvek cost?

[TimSullivan]

<font color="green"> Makes a good vapor barrier and has a minor r factor (r1). Basically using it as a wind break. Its only $5.50 per sheet, so its pretty economical. I'll also use this between the purlins and the metal roof to eliminate sweating. Do you think that I should also use the tyvek wrap on the sides if I do this? How much would tyvek cost?
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Sounds like it will do a good job. The house wrap was a gift so the price was really right. My neighbor had it left over from his home building. I was surprised the difference it made when the battens were not installed.

[farmhouse]

RobS-Strongly consider Hardi Plank or Hardi Panel. It's considered by your insurance company the same as brick and will cost you about 1/3 less. In addition it holds paint like a champ. No I don't work for Hardie, just a real satisfied user. By the way, the builder charged me $1,500 more on an 1,100 sq. ft. farm house for the installation of Hardi Plank over T111. No upcharge for material, just for labor because I wanted plank instead of 4X8 panel. Hope this helps. If you're interested, email me and I send over a picture.

[em14]

I have Hardie Plank on my house and I really like it ... I am building a large shop and it has Hardy Plank on it also. I think it is one of the best sidings for residenial buildings today. Due to the county codes, Florida HurricanneConstruction Codes and the size of the building I was required to use 6" 14 ga. metal studs. The Hardie plank has no problem with that. Go to their web site and look around it's a nice and informative site. Since it is hard to find with google (I guess Hardie didn't pay Google to list them) here is the URL: http://www.jameshardie.com/
Leo

[GaryM]

My new home has Certantied Weatherboards for siding. It's about the same as the Hardiplank, except it comes with a factory applied finish. Finish is warenteed for 15 years.

[Bird]

One of our daughters has a double wide mobile home with the HardiPanel siding. She recently had it repainted a different color and it came out very good with just a single coat of Behr paint (rolled and brushed)

[andreg]

!. YOU MUST examine each sheet (BEFORE YOU BRING IT HOME) to make sure it has not de-laminated and the the top and bottom are not split.

2. YOU MUST use a vapor barrier but, don't let it touch the ground. and in extremely wet or flooding areas leave it one foot of the ground. this will stop mold from growing between the barrier and the siding.

3. YOU MUST seal all side edges, cut offs, rips, and any holes you may drill. the best way i have found to do this is with bher premium plus self priming exterior paint. Yes! i mean prime all sides of the t111! what you need is one coat non-exposed (back), two coats exposed (front) keep a pal of this paint as you install the panel and apply it very LIBERALLY! to edge cuts, holes and so on.
- Note:a lot of people do not prime t111 first so yes! it will soak up paint. i use to put on one coat of oil base sealer fist and then two coats of paint . now with this bher premium plus self priming exterior paint two coats and you are good.
- Coverage: first coat will do about 225 to 275 sq ft --second coat will do about 325 to 375 this all depends on how dry you location is. these numbers are with brush and roller application. DO NOT SPRAY! the surface is to rough and you will not get product millage spec.

4. YOU MUST CAULK EVERYTHING!!! YES, EVERYTHING. caulk will not adhere to natural (un-primed) wood, so do all of your caulking after your first coat. you must check the caulk every spring and fall on all of your structures.

5. 3/8 T111 is for interior use, spend the money for the 5/8

Finally, a couple of things.
Never let any siding touch the ground (pressure treated only).

At any roof line where t111 meets the shingle, flashing should be on the outside of the t111 so that no water or snow can roll under the sheeting. it is guaranteed to root. you must seal the top edge of the flashing so that no water goes in the kurfs (the grooves).

All Stains are Garbage and just a way for companies to get you to buy their products every couple of years!

Good Luck! jbnliz@gmail.com

[StahL22]

Quick question. I have purchased a double wide modular home that was mfg in 1995 and has t111 siding on it, which is still in good shape. I want to install hardiplank horizontal siding over the tlll, I do not know if there is house wrap under the t111, so would leaving the t111 on and applying the hardiplank cause mold or moisture issues? should I apply a layer of house wrap over the t111? I would prefer not to remove the t111 siding. Thanks