we were qouted 6000.00 saturday for a 75-100ft well with submersable pump and 81 gal pressure tank and no electrical or plumbing done and 7000.00 for a relativly new "soft start"[1 3/4hp] system??i guess it uses less electricity and has a smaller 30 gal tank.he said its the new and upcoming thing in wells??anybody know about this new system??do some well drillers do everything[elec,plumbing ect]and how much more should it cost??thanks bws
There's a bunch of knowledgeable people here, and a lot of old posts you should look through. But the drillers in your area will know your area best. Get some more quotes, ask lots of questions. Mention driller A's name to driller B and see if you get a response. Ask your neighbors.
In my area, a 100 foot well would only be suitable as a livestock well (too acidic). Typically wells around here are 200-300 feet.
Unless a driller is licensed electrician, he probably won't touch electricity. For my well, I buried conduit and cable from breaker to new well location prior to drilling, along with water pipe. Driller then hooked up electricity at pump, along with water pipe. Then when I wasn't sure about where to hook in at in breaker box, driller helped me out. Saved cost of electrician.
getting mailed another qoute[told him i was price shopping]its a consant pressure system thats new and alot of people are going to.the well driller i spoke with yesterday was not comfortable with them yet and said he would not do one.probably dont need a electrician just too h/u.thanks bws
I've been looking at these constant pressure systems as well. But I still haven't figured them out. Bypassing the tank and sending water straight to house sounds like a good idea. But a regulator can only drop pressure, not raise it. So it seems to me the only way to keep a constant pressure would be to regulate down to a lower pressure, or the low end of the cut-in/cut-out range. Or is the the tank and cut-out pressure set higher? At any rate, it looks like I can just buy the valve/switch/regulator set-up and retrofit later if I want. Right now my solution to fluctuating pressure was to install a second smaller tank closer to house, after filters and softener. This helped a lot. And besides, I used to live in Houston. I'm used to fluctuating water pressure.
I installed a SmartTank system from Flexcon Industries earlier this year and I'm very happy with it. The details are in This Thread .
Basically, the Pressure Regulator Valve (PRV) forms a "T" between the well pump, the pressure tank, and the house. The PRV is set to supply a constant 50 PSI to the house and pressure tank as long as the flow is greater than 1 GPM. When the flow is less than 1 GPM the pressure rises to the full pressure of the well pump.
What this means is that the house draws water (at greater than 1 GPM) from the tank until the pressure falls to the pump cut-on pressure. (The switch should be set for 40/60). When the pump cuts on, the PRV holds the pressure to the house/tank at 50 PSI so as long as you're drawing water, the pressure switch will never get to 60 PSI and cut off. Thus "Constant Pressure".
When you shut off the house water draw, the flow falls below 1 GPM and the PRV allows full pump pressure to be applied to the house & tank so that when the tank fills up the pressure switch senses 60 PSI and cuts off the pump.
Your house pressure will fall from 60 PSI to 40PSI as you draw water from the tank but as soon as the pump kicks on you get 50 PSI until you turn off the flow.
Ah. That makes more sense. It's called constant pressure. But that's only when pump is on. With pump off, pressure will vary from 50 down to 40 psi, when pump kicks back on. Do I have it right now? And it should stay at 50 for a long time since tank starts out full and at 60 psi.
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It's called constant pressure. But that's only when pump is on. With pump off, pressure will vary from 50 down to 40 psi, when pump kicks back on. Do I have it right now? And it should stay at 50 for a long time since tank starts out full and at 60 psi.
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Yes, it's constant pressure only when the pump is on. With the pump off, pressure actually drops from 60 (where it was when the pump kicked off) down to 40. How long it takes to get from 60 to 40 depends on the size of your pressure tank and how many faucets you have open, but when it hits 40 and the pump kicks on, it immediately jumps up to 50 at all of the open taps (assuming your pump can supply 50 PSI at that much flow rate). That's the way mine works anyway.
We had our well put down about 3 years ago now. It was about $4500.00 for a 125 footer with submersible pump and 1 frost free hydrant. Driller brought water into the house and wired the pump, but I had to make the plumbing connection from tank to house plumbing.
we got 2 other qoutes on a standard system and a contant pressure system.standard was 6500.00[85ft,3/4hp pump,80 gal tank] and 7100.00 for a franklin constant pressure system.question-could i just buy a pump and tank from say northern tool ?? and then have the well driller wire and drop it in?? do i need a two wire or 3 wire 3/4 hp pump[franklin @ 329.00]??northern sells 41 to 220 gallon rated tanks for 99.00 to 299.00.seems like a deal compared to the 2000.00 the well driller is charging for a tank and pump??
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