I just kept asking around with people I knew to see if anyone had any 1/2" & 3/4" black pipe and, lo and behold, the brother of a friend says he has some 1/2" I can have, but no 3/4" at all. He then asks if there's any way I could use 1" as he has a big pile of it in 21' lengths he's tired of looking at that he'd love to see disappear.
I told him what I was planning and he, like you guys here, told me that the full 1" would be better. He then asks me if I have a threader, which, of course, I don't and he tells me that's no problem because I'm welcome to his. He even suggested that some cold beer at my jobsite might have that threader include an operator, too. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
I like the idea of a closed system (Loop) and it would work great in my barn. My compressor is in one corner and I could just run the perimeter and maybe even run a couple lines across from end to end, too. At 21' lengths it would only take four for each run in either direction. I could have a boxed tic-tac-toe board pattern with only 32 pieces. That would get me nine boxes of about 24' x 27' from which to run my 1/2" drops. Just running the perimeter in an enclosed loop as you mentioned would only take sixteen pieces. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
Thanks for that idea. It makes perfect sense and I'd never have even considered it had you not brought it up here. Just one more example of why the TBN/CBN combo is the best place on the Internet. You guys are GREAT! [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
Some more thoughts too... Slope the pipe so that water in the piping will drain to a drop somewhere in the system. When you T-off the main line for air supply put your T in upside down (a riser instead of a drop)and then make a u-turn to come down for the supply and then once you get down to where you want to plug in, put another T in sideways and make the connection there and continue the drop on down to a drain. With the T there the water will hopfully fall past the plug. You will still need to put drops in to drain the water. I have a included several drains and a good filter and regulator and had have good results keeping water out of stuff. Attached is a web page that shows it better than I can explain it. The one thing I did different is to put a T at the compressor and a drain right as you come out of the compressor. They show a flexible connection at the compressor, which is a good idea but I haven't had any problems with my solid connection. piping diagram
I only have one regulator and filter in my system and a couple points of use. Main thing for me was to get the compressor off in the corner out of the way and close to electric supply.
I also put a sleeve of 1 1/2 PVC pipe over my copper on one of the long straight runs that I can run cold water thru to help condense out the moisture in the air. I have never needed to use this but, I haven't tried to paint a car yet either. Basically a very cheap dryer.
By the way, for all you mathematician wannabees. My initial plans are to simply install a run from front of garage to back - 32 feet total. I estimated 1" copper to add about 1.5 gallons to my reservoir. 1.5 gallons doesn't sound like my much, but it adds 4.5% above my 33 gallon tank. And this is probably a short run for most of those here. And maybe more importantly, 1" means about no pressure drop and puts "reservoir" right by the point of use.
I agree sch 40 wouldn't be the best way to go but how about sch 80? Don't know the burst off hand but I know it's quite a bit more than sch 40 and would be as easy to install.
If you mean pvc, sch 40 is strong enough. It's just that when it fails, from pressure, cold, impact or whatever, it's dramatic. Pieces of pvc blown all over. I've used pvc, and know of others who have, but I've been convinced it's not worth the risk to my family. (If it were just me - well, I'm expendable.)
If you mean steel. For steel, Grade B carbon steel , 1" sch 40 has a pressure rating of 2857 psi. More than adequate. Now I don't know what home depot sells, or about black iron, but I'm sure sch 40 is okay.
I don't mind using steel. I think the big houses cut and thread for free. I still intend to price but will probably use copper. Two advantages of copper: 1. doesn't rust up inside 2. better conductivity meaning more water may condense out as air is cooled.
Now maybe someone can talk about galvanized versus black iron. Is there a reason for not using galvanized? Like is it more brittle than black pipe?
A friend of mine used PVC, don't do it!! He had a mud-dauber make a nest in the pressure switch. Fortunately he wasn't in the shop when it blew. I used copper in my shop. I guess the same thing can happen, but I think the compressor would stall or relieve before it exceeded the pressure rating of the copper (I need to check that tonight). If I had access to a threader, I would have used carbon steel pipe.
[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] I'm with Ergon on this one.....a good safety valve can save a hole in the roof if the pressure switch sticks or freezes. [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]
Don't all compressors have a releif valve built right on the unit?? My cutout is 120psi and I have a releif valve on the compressor itself that pops out someplace after 120psi. It also has a pull pin so you can manually check it to make sure it's not frozen
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