Husqvarna 394XP Chainsaw, used

[Pat]

Today I checked in on ebay to once again work my way through the "Texas Chainsaw Massacre" memoribilia in search of a suitable chainsaw for a chainsaw mill. I found a Husqvarna 394XP.

I looked at sellers feedback, bidding history, researched the model and price, and then put in a maximum bid that I thought appropriate for a saw that retails for about $850 + tax if you can find one in stock at that discounted price.

I'll be "bird doggin'" the delivery trucks for this 32 inch chain bar 90cc eager eater. Time will tell if I saved money or messed up. I don't expect to run it too many hours per month on average so maybe I won't wear it out too fast if it isn't worn out yet.

Now if Harbor Freight would just ship the chainsaw mill the only missing ingredient is a ripping chain to which I now turn my attention.

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[egon]

Pat:

Unless you are absolutly sure of the saw sprocket, chain gauge and pitch it may be wise to wait for the saw before ordering chain loops of proper length.

Egon

[Pat]

Egon, YUP! On examination I determined there was no way of knowing for sure so I have to wait. Don't want to "shotgun" it and then return the wrong sizes.

There was a popular combination of powerhead, bar and chain that was sold in great numbers but no way of knowing that this saw isn't cobbled together out of whatever even though it is the same length bar. Too many other variables. The ebay seller has a good rating but is a pawn shop not a usual source of chainsaw knowledge.

I am leaning toward a couple Oregon chains but haven't made a final determination yet. I have read info about others but don't think I would go too far wrong with Oregon. I could get two different brands/types and see which I like better. There are some pretty strong cautions about aggressive chains and kickback in the hands of a less than expert user. IF I have the saw attached to an Alaskan mill, is kickback still an issue or very dangerous. If not I might opt for trying a more aggressive chain, possibly on a shorter bar to reduce drag as I don't think I will really need a 32 inch bar.

Any suggestions re chain and bar length?

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[egon]

Pat:

Sorry, I can not make any recomendations as my experience level is not adaquate.

Egon

[Pat]

Egon, I got a quick response here:

You could use Oregon 72RD or 75RD ( one is .050 gauge and the other is .063 gauge ) When you get the saw give me a call with the numbers that are stamped on the current bar and also the numbers from the chain. the drive links will have a 72 or a 75 for Oregon chain and either 3 ( .050 ) or a 6 (.063 ) for Stihl brand chain.

Thank you
Dan
@
Madsen's

1-800-822-2808

Sounds like he knows what I need... after we find out what I have [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

I'm not a real patient waiter... One day I must really learn patience BUT HOW LONG WILL THAT TAKE!!!

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[egon]

Pat:

I'm lucky. Just ten kilometers down the road is a husky dealer who can tell me what I need and then supply it or order it in if it's of unusual nature.

He makes chain loops as you ask and watch. I have no idea as to what brand he is using but suspect it is one of the anti kickback designs.

Just for incidental information would you like a quick course on how to convert a rip chain to a crosscut version. I have done it.

Egon

[Pat]

Egon buddy, by now you know me well enough to recognize me as an incurable information junky. I would be pleased to have the info for making a ripper into a cross cut but isn't the other way around the more usual conversion? Does this imply that after a loop is no longer useful for ripping it could be converted and successfully used as a crosscut?

One guy claimed to sell the "magic secret conversion info" for cross to rip conversion on ebay for $20.

Anti-kickback... I recognize the value of an anti-kickback design for casual users limbing and making a bit of firewood but with a ripper loop and the saw attached to a mill, how important is anti-kickback? If it is still an issue, I'll take the conservative anti-kickback route. If being attached to a mill essentially elliminates the kickback issue then I would rather have the more aggressive chain.

Yet another of the many things that make me go hmmmmm!

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat

[egon]

Pat:

Give a clumbsy dummy a file and ripchain and it doesn't take too many fileings to change angles to crosscut. I have done that several times.

As for the mill one would assume the most aggressive chain available would be desirable unless the smoothness of cut is a big issue.

What our local dealer sells is used out in the woods here by many who would be considered proffessionals.

Egon

[egon]

A picture of saw chain parts for those interested. It's about 25 years old.

Egon

[Dog]

Pat, I'm a newguy in search of a model number for a Craftsman 2.3, 16" chainsaw. Got one that needs a recoil spring, but the model/serial plate is gone, no book. Someone gave it to me last year in sad shape.
I came across your post of 3/11/04 RE:chainsaw wars where you mentioned you had one.
I registered and went to find that post, but no luck.
I would appreciate any help.