The best 10" table saw blade...

[turnagerg]

"If you don't have the $ for a Forrest, check out the Jesada."
I have both and agree. Money spent on a cheap blade soon cost me more in aggravation than I want to spend again.

[fivestring]

Gary, Pete and Chris....

Thanks for the input.
Next weekend (March 12 to 14), is the Charlotte Woodworking Show. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] I'll be like a kid in a candy store!
I know where I'll be on Saturday! [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
I hope one of the vendors has a good deal on a ripping/glue line saw blade. If not, I'll be buying one anyway...
I've got a Freud on my 10" miter saw and it does great.
I've got a Freud combination blade (TKR906) on my cheap tablesaw and it does great cross-cutting but not so good ripping (it wants to bog down). Freud blades seem to be good blades, but I haven't used any other brands to compare them with. They average $30 - $75.
Since I'm working on 6 projects at one time (cabinets, shelves, etc.), I needed a combo blade. It's a PITA to keep changing blades, but I guess I've got to do it!
If I had a 24" miter saw [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img] , then I could leave the new rip blade on my table saw!!! [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[GaryM]

The "woodworking show" was in St. Louis this weekend just past. The Forrest blades were going for under $100.

You probably are already aware of this, but keeping pitch and gum cleaned off the blade makes any blade work better and use less energy cutting. At the show there were some fellows selling T-9 Boe Lube, A gum remover, and a rust remover. All the products seemed to work well. There was a write up on some of these produts in Wood Magazine recently.

[egon]

Iv'e used oven cleaner to get the crud off saw blades.

Attached a report on saw blade tests.

Egon

[GaryM]

I'm happy to see the Forrest is the only one rated Excellant for both rip and cross cuts.

I've used a water based pitch remover that I had bought at Woodcraft. It was pink, and if I recall was to be diluted with water for use.

[Hank]

We always used kerosene to clean pitch from blades and knives.

[idaho04]

I have Forrest WWII, it is the best. But I use Oldham 24 for rough ripping. I also like the Oldham Signature woodworking blade.

[Pat]

Since the main topic of business is handled and while you are still gathered together, let me ask this: What is a good 10 inch blade for ripping lumber. I will be planing it later and only need a rough cut but want to maximize the saws capability if it doesn't cost more for the recommended blade than I paid for the saw new with blade.

It is a 10 inch Makita table saw (on a stand) mostly plastic except for lightweight saw table and cost over 3 times what the saw it is replacing cost.

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[DocHeb]

I have a Freud LU87 thin-kerf rip blade that just tears through 8/4 and 12/4 maple and oak. You can really tell the difference between a thin-kerf and a regular-kerf blade.

The thin kerf really moves through the wood, but does have a tendency to vibrate, and occasionally follows the grain a bit in oak. This isn't a big problem, but does cause a few more blade marks in the wood. This is easy to fix if you have a jointer to finish up the edges.

[Pat]

DocHeb, Thanks for the recommendation. I do have a jointer so I can touch up the edges OK. As of yesterday I have a DeWalt 12 1/2 inch thickness plane. Just chomping at the bit for my rough sawn eastern red cedar to dry enough to work well.

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]