Rob, your brake controller sounds like the same type as the first one I ever had, in 1972 on a '71 3/4 ton Chevy, when I didn't know anything at all about them and that's what the RV dealer installed on my truck (undoubtedly because it was cheap). I don't remember what brand it was, but it was not a Reese, and I did not like it. In fact, the next time I got a controller, it was a Reese, but it was the type that, in addition to the electric wires, had a steel line running from the controller through the firewall and tapped into a "T" in the brake line at the master cylinder. I used that one on a '70 Olds and a '72 Chrysler station wagon and think it was the best there was in those days. As you increased pressure on the brake pedal, the increased pressure going into the brake controller also increased the amperage going to the trailer brakes. Of course, I don't know, but don't think anyone even makes that type anymore because I don't think you want to tap into the hydraulics on these modern brake systems.
Rob,
I had a Reese on my last truck, the present needs don't dictate a controller at this time. I had no issues at all with it. Worked just like I thought it should.
Mosey,
If you tried to connect the "break-away" battery to the brake lights on a 4-way connector, you'd lose your turn signals. You only have
1) ground
2) right turn/brake
3) left turn/brake
4)running lights
So you'd have to tie 2&3 together.......no good
Or if you just used one wire, you'd get pulsing brakes I suppose.
It is complex. But, all that is in the controller. You should be able to go to Chevy, and get the controller pigtail. You can get them from the RV places too. That pigtail has four wires, which hook in to a connecter end. There's four wires coming out of the brake controller; hot, ground,, brakes to trailer, and a wire that connects to the trucks break switch.
Fortunately, these days, all you have to do is hook the four wires from the controller to the pigtail. The other end of the pigtail simply plugs in to a connector under the dash. On my Dodge, it is on the lower steering column area.
I run the Tekonsha, but the model below the Prodigy(Sentinel). I think it was about $90.
The breakawy systems are a good thing too. My trailer has one. Never needed it, but...
Another thing of note. I use a locking pin on my receiver hitch. A guy I bought a horse trailer from told me about the time his horse trailer came loose from the truck, with horses in it. Turned out, the hairpin came out of cross pin, and the reciever parts slid out! Now, I use the locking cross-pin, and I lock the hitch itself with a padlock.
Also of note, is to make sure you cross your safety chains. Right safety chain hoks on left side of truck, left to right side. If you trailer ever gets loose, it should help it stay straight, and can act as a cradle for the trailer hitch.
Yes Bird, the old units that tapped into the brake line pressure were the best for braking but could cause problems with today's brake systems. There is a unit out there (maybe the prodigy you mentioned) that has a cable arrangement hooked to the brake pedal. It senses pedal travel which approximates brake line pressure. Ever heard of that? Sounds like a decent setup to me [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
This has sure turned out to be disappointing. When I bought the truck with the "tow package" I assumed I had everything I needed. Now I have to spend another $150! For now, I'll just go without brakes (I'm borrowing a trailer and taking my tractor in for service; I'm only going 20 miles and can take the back roads and stay under 30 MPH). If I ever get my own trailer and need to tow more often, then I guess I'll bite the bullet and pay the $150.
With the trailer tow option you only have to spend $150 for trailer brakes. If you didn't already have the option you'd be looking at quite a bit more money to run all the wires and add the trailer connection out back.
Glass half empty or half full right? Actually, the glass is too big [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
Rob, that Jordan certainly looks good and, as you would expect, their website describes it as being great. I've heard that the Jordon products really are good; just don't recall ever actually seeing one.
Of course all the manufacturers change their products from time to time and the last one I actually bought for myself was a Tekonsha and I liked it better than anything else I'd used. It was slightly different from the current models but looked more like the Voyager. But the one I helped my brother install on his Suburban (not that either of us needed any help) was the Prodigy.
Danny, the "tow package" is different with different makes of trucks, some makes even have more than one "tow package" for towing different size trailers. A "tow package" may include only some, or all, of the following: heavier duty engine cooling, higher capacity alternator, heavier springs and/or shock absorbers, bigger brakes, the extra wiring, auxilliary transmission oil cooler, stablizer bars, etc. But I, personally, don't know of any make that includes the brake controller and I would speculate that it's for a couple of reasons. Some people prefer a specific type or brand of controller, there are different models of controllers within the same brand, you would need to know whether the trailer to be pulled has 1, 2, or 3 axles (you can use a controller made for 3 axles on a 1 or 2 axle trailer, but not vice versa), and the controller can be mounted in different locations; some prefer left of the steering column and some prefer right of the steering column (I've had them mounted both ways and still don't know which I like best). [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]
At any rate, I think you were wise to get the "tow package" and I think if you go ahead an buy a brake controller, you'll not regret it.
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