Ball Joints

[fugaluga]

Have a 2000 Ford F-350 super duty 4x4.
With only 50,000 miles. Problem, ball joints are shot.
Is this a do it your self job or do I need to spend
the money and have the dealer do it.
I do plan to have a front end alignment regardless who does it.
Thanks

[GaryM]

It's a do it yourself job if you're careful. Springs that support the front end of your truck can hurt you if you aren't careful.

It's been many years since I've replaced any ball joints, but here's what I remember:

Take a look and see how your joints are attached.

Some factory joints are pressed into the control arms. These are difficult to remove.

Some are riveted on. These can be removed with an air chisel. Sometimes it easier if you drill through the rivet first.

You'll probably need what's called a "pickle fork" to drive the tapered part of the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. These come in two sizes. One for ball joints and one for steering gear joints. You need the big one. And a good sized hammer.

You'll also need someting to compress the springs while you remove and replace the joints as the spring pressure will want to force everything apart as soon as the ball joint comes loose.

And of course jacks stands and all that stuff. Spring compressors and pickle forks can be rented at a rental center or some parts stores.

[egon]

On 4x4 it gets a little more complicated to change the ball joints. You have to pull the front axle. On reassembly the axle has to go back in properly or seals may be damaged and leak oil from the front differential case.

The ball joints can be replaced with lifetime warranty type.

I'd take it to a shop but I'm not to mechanically gifted.

Egon

[RobS]

I did one side of my 97 F250HD 4X4. It's a dana 50 front axle where yours is probably a dana 60. The knuckle end is the same.

It's a pretty big job. Took me a whole evening for one side only (other side wasn't bad). Big parts, big tools, big muscles involved. You'll need some special tools too... spindle nut wrench, ball joint press, slide hammer to pull the spindle. Many of the bolts are on pretty ugly so you'll need some big breakers etc. The spring that someone else mentioned really doesn't come into play, just make sure you've got the truck safely supported on sturdy jack stands.

All that said, it is doable if you are up to it. I never checked what I saved by doing it myself but I'm guessing it's an expensive job. You'll probably get a better price from a suspension/brake shop over the dealer. The parts themselves are cheap. I had access to the expensive tools and bought my own spindle nut wrench. Get a Chiltons (or whatever) and follow the proper steps for bearing pre-load [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[RobS]

Now that I think about it I replaced the knuckle u-joint at the same time. I think you still have to pull the axle shaft just for the ball joints but not sure. You might as well replace that u-joint while you're in there, it's pretty easy [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[Autotech]

Its mostly a question of how mechanically adept you are. Replacement of balljoints on a front, solid axle 4wd requires a lot of disassembly, and several special tools.
I haven't done them on my F350 yet, but at 50,000 miles I'm expecting them soon.
In general terms the job requires removal of the caliper/bracket, the rotor, the hub (special tool), then the spindle tube from the spindle, then the axle assembly from inside the spindle and axle housing. Now you can disconnect the balljoints and remove the spindle (or knuckle). Another special tool is needed to press the balljoints in and out of the spindle, and they must be done in the right order. During reassembly, depending on the type of set-up used, another special tool may be needed to install the upper balljoint sleeve. You should replace the axle u-joint while its out. I also believe that your truck will have a non-servicable cartridge type front wheel bearing which will either require replacement once you remove it, or is highly reccomended to be replaced due to a relatively short service life.
All in all its a pretty complicated job.
I would reccomend a factory service manual as a reference.

Another good source of info on anything for that truck is
www.thedieselstop.com

Gregg

[fugaluga]

Whoopie all done!! It's a 6hr job alright .
The only tool I needed was a PRESS, glad my son
had access to one.
Thanks for all the replys and advise

[egon]

Congradulations on a job well done.

You are a braver man than I as I would have spent the $400 dollars a shop calls for.

Egon

[RobS]

Hey, congrats! That's a substantial undertaking. Now, are you ready to help me with a clutch in mine [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]