Workshop decking material

[MelonHead]

Howdy.

Am gearing up to build a new workshop. It will be a metal building but instead of the normal 3" plastic covered insulation over metal purlins, I'm going to use (wood) 2x6's, 24" OC for purlins and traditional insulation, either batts or roll in. The walls will be 2x4's, 16"OC.

I plan to then cover the under side (and inside for the walls). This is a second benefit over the 3" insulation which is normally not covered or perhaps is simply held in place with chicken wire - I'd tear that up!

I'm looking for ideas for the decking.

Here are the options I've thought of:

sheetrock:
PRO: fire retardant. cheap.
CON: very heavy. looks like crap if not taped and painted.

plywood:
PRO: light, durable, lighter weights can be easier to put up.
CON: more flamable.

I decked the inside of my garage with 3/8" plywood. I left it unfinished and like the looks of it just fine. I wouldn't mind if it were lighter to reflect more light but it'd take a lot of work (and paint) to paint plywood.

I'm considering (this is embarrasing) ... paneling! This is of course cheap and lightweight and can be bought in different finishes. A white-ish paneling would be great for the ceiling especially. Would paneling be rigid enough to put it up against the roof rafters with no sheetrock? I wonder if over time, the weight of the insulation would cause it to sag?

Am I a fool to consider putting up plywood, paneling or maybe OSB decking in a shop where I'll have a wood burning stove and will be welding regularly?

Any other ideas???

Thanks!

[zuiko]

I wouldn't think panelling would do a very good job. I would be concerned about how well it would stay fastened to the rafters with finish nails with adhesive. I suppose you could use framing nails to get more holding power but that wouldn't look too good. That would be my main concern. I don't think sagging would be a problem if it were fastened well enough.

If it were me I would probably go for the plywood or OSB.

Not sure about the stove. If its installed properly it shouldn't be a problem, but they always make me a bit nervous.

[em14]

What does your zoning allow and have you checked with your Insurance Company?
Leo

[AndyF]

How about steel on the inside also. It goes up fast, will probably cost less than plywood, won't catch on fire and is tougher than drywall.

[MelonHead]

Answers to the above questions:

We live in the Wild West RE zoning laws - no permits.

If I was to use paneling (or OSB or plywood for that matter), I'd put up with sheetrock *screws*. They hold well and go in easy with a cordless drill/driver.

Metal would be an option. Fire resistant, looks good, etc. A bit more of a pain to put up as I'd have to "rip" lots of sheets to fit between my trusses.

I guess I was hoping that somebody would toss out some new miracle product - high R value, durable, nice finish, easy to work with and cheap to boot!

I'll likely end up with 3/8 plywood for the walls and maybe 1/4" plywood or paneling for the ceiling (lighter and therefore easier to put up).

It'll be a while before I'm ready for this step, so I'll keep looking....

[fivestring]

<font color="red">"I'd put up with sheetrock *screws*." </font color>

I'll second that. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

I told my better half that if she ever heard me say I was building ANYTHING using nails or slot-head screws, to either have me committed or shot or both! [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img]

I absolutely hate nails and slot-heads. There is no way to take apart and rebuild without damage the screw or to the item being dis-assembled..... [img]/forums/images/icons/mad.gif[/img]

[egon]

Think Robertson eh!

Egon

[zuiko]

The steel idea is a good one. The panels come pretty narrow (30"?) so I'm not sure if you'd still have the ripping problem.

[Chillimau]

Go across the bottom of the trusses. Lay your steel sheets perpendicular to the trusses and go the lentgh of the building with each sheet. Use the same steel on the inside as on the outside except maybe white?