Old table saw to router table?????

[Pat]

Egon, I would think that Saran wrap or other fairly impermeable material would prevent the area of a board that is in contact with the "coated" sticker from drying promptly and that it might induce or promote staining of some sort. The stickers of untreated wood should wick moisture out to a degree, if not as fast as the uncovered wood.

I got the recommendation over on the forestry forum to use the same wood for stickers as the wood being dried. IT is a chemical match and should be as safe as anything.

This is all untested (by me) and new for me so I am considering it an experiment.

What saw do you use for your chainsaw mill? How long is the bar and what HP is it? Do you buy rip blades or resharpen regular ones for ripping?

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[egon]

Pat:

Pete, Boondox. made a comment about different wood stickers staining and to use the same wood for stickers.

I have a Husky 365 with 18 in bar and use a rip chain. Sharpen it myself. A 22 inch bar would work better but would have to make sure I don't heat things up by getting impatient. The saw isn't quite large enough to handle a 22 in. bar with ease.

Egon

[Pat]

Egon, The particular comment, not to detract from Boondox, if I recall correctly was posted on another forum. If he didn't get it from the same place I did then I have it from two sources and am glad I did it that way, over my wife's protestations of ruining all that beautiful wood.

http://www.forestryforum.com/

Thanks for the data point. A Husky 365 will work but more is better.

What I was wondering is if you resharpened a regular cross cutting chain to different specs to make it a rip chain or if you bought a rip chain. Someone on ebay claims to sell the "secret" of doing that for $20. NOT TO ME!

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[fivestring]

"If he didn't get it from the same place I did then I have it from two sources and am glad I did it that way, over my wife's protestations of ruining all that beautiful wood."

I was taught that way years ago.
One thing you can do when you cut the stickers, is to cut them to a size that you can re-use later. I cut mine anywhere from 1/2 inch to 2 inches wide and the length to match the width of the boards being stacked.
I re-use maple and walnut stickers to make banjo bridges.
I re-use larger maple stickers for knobs, plugs, push sticks and spacers for repetitive cutting.
I re-use oak stickers to make plugs and knobs.

[Chillimau]

Pat, Did you seal the ends? My understanding is that will help prevent drying too fast, splitting the first few inches of the board as the wood near the ends shrinks and splits because the wood closer to the middle hasn't shrank yet.

I'm not saying it very well but basically you want the wood to dry through the faces and not the ends, allowing it to shrink evenly (in theory) I think even sealing the ends you will still have some splitting because of faster drying or better air circulation around the ends.

[egon]

Pat:

I think Pete posted on the other forum but can't remember when.

The ordinary chain has teeth that are filed at 35 degree angle. The rip chain is filed at 6 degree angle. I have one specific rip chain purchased for that purpose. Please note that there are many different tooth configurations so others may be different. What we mostly see are the chains that reduce the chances of kickback but cut a little slower and this is all I'm familiar with.

After I'm through sharpening a chain there are many different angles so all bases are covered. he-he

Egon

[Hank]

<font color="purple"> A Router can be used to create cuts in either the edges or surfaces of boards. A Shaper is normally only used on edges. </font color>

I used to use a shaper frequently on the surfaces of boards, notably for fluting pilasters, up to about an 8" wide one. A tall spindle helps, so you can move the collars up and down.

A molder is a milling device that can cut (usually) on all four sides at the same time. It has revolving cutterheads on all four sides in which you affix your steel knives. They are useful for milling things like handrail in a single pass. They require more setup time than a shaper, which pays off when the work is complex and the run is a long one.

[robertn]

Rockller has all kinds of Routers and various adapters. Maybe try them www.rockler.com

[Pat]

Gary (AKA chilimau), I haven't but I will. LLIkewise some tree pruning I did isn't sealed yet. I expect my latex coating stuff to be delivered tomorrow if it wasn't delivered about 5PM today. Two delivery trucks pulled into my house site as we left. I didn't stay and couldn't see if they had the gallon can. My GC will bring it tomorrow probably if they didn't deliver.

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[Pat]

Egon, I actually bought a file holding jig for sharpening blades but have never used it yet and don't really understand it. I hope to get someone to show me.

I may be a candidate for attending the Egon School of Random Angle Chainsaw Sharpening where if you sharpen at random angles you will eventually get within an acceptable delta of the angle you want, on at least one link.

Since the gist of the conversation is that converting my old table saw to a router table seems to be that it isn't a particularly good idea then what might it be better to make it into besides recycled aluminum, etc.?

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]