roof shingles (installation)

[Weave]

Interesting comments. I recently learned that most roofers now days do not remove the cellophane. However, when my house was re-roofed, the cellophane was removed on most of the shingles. It was all over my yard. Over the years I have lost a few shingles and all those coming off DID NOT have the cellophane removed. Since there is adhesive under the cellophane, I believe it does give you a better installation. I think the professionals say removing it isn't necessary since it is very time consuming. I would like to hear the unbiased opinion of some older retired roofers on this subject.

[beenthere]

Welcome to the forum. I'm older, retired, and not a 'professional' roofer. However;

I just finished re-roofing last week, and did not remove the cellophane from each shingle, as the cellophane has white lettering printed on it that says in English, plus two other languages, "Do Not Remove". It appears to be there to contact the adhesive strip of the adjoining shingle when packaged in the bundle (I just went out and looked at the leftovers of the last bundle).

Now in the past, there may have been a manufacturer of shingles that did put a cellophane strip over the adhesive strip that did need to be removed before installation. Therefore, all can be right in their opinion to remove, or not remove. I suspect this is the case. [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[GaryM]

Also not a professional roofer, but the strip keeps the shingles from sticking in the bundles as you said. When they are installed, the adhesive does not line up with the strip. So why would you want to take it off?

[Chillimau]

Like the rest I'm not a pro roofer. If I am remembering correctly the shingles are bundled in opposing directions. Tamko heritage 25 were the last shingles I used. Once you lay the shingles in the same orientation the cellophane is not in the bonding strip. No need to remove.

[mathey]

Is there an easy way to trim the shingles in a straight line where they overhang the eaves? Seems to me I recall that a plywood blade installed backwards in a circular saw works, but i'm not positive. Any help?

[GaryM]

A utility knife with a hook blade works well. They make a shingle cutter that looks like a really heavy duty paper cutter.

I've seen it in the Amazon tool catalog. Link

Of course for $500 you can buy a lot of utility knife blades.

[mathey]

Does that work from the top as well? i can't imagine trying to cut thru (at some places) 2 layers of shingles with a utility knife from the top side and getting it to look halfway decent...but, If you think it'll work, i'll try it!

thanks for the reply!

[GaryM]

That's the way we cut the overhang on a three car garage a friend and I built.

You may find it easier to cut the top layer first, then the second layer.

I've seen the roofers in my area do it the same way.

[owdouglas]

yep the plastic stays on, and the hook knife works much better in warmer weather, I found a regular blade is better when singles are stiff

[mathey]

***UPDATE on eave trimming with saw***

The plywood blade in the circular saw does not work...well, it works, but not well...it tears the heck out of the blade and is very slow going.

What DID work however is a carbide masonry blade...I bought one of these last year to do a brick patio...man, you almost can't kill this blade, well worth the $20 it cost. Anywho, it cuts thru the shingles like "buddah"...nice clean straight line and super quick.