Outside Faucet

[MikePA]

I have to replace an outside faucet, freeze-proof type. Problem is, the hole through the cinder block wall is so 'hogged out' there's no place to install anchors for the screws. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img] Any ideas?

[dummy]

pre-mix mortar. Insert the fixture, fill the cavity using a "pastry bag" if you have to. Once dry, you will have something to screw into (probably won't need to though).

[MikePA]

The freeze proof faucet has threads at the end, so i bought a copper transition that has a threaded connection (female) on one end and a 1/2" joint that gets soldered to the house water supply line.

Is the following correct?

Connect the copper transition to the faucet using teflon tape then sweat the joint to the water supply.

My question is...Wont the heating of the transition to connect it to the water supply also melt the teflon tape?

I thought about connecting the copper transition to the water supply and then screwing the faucet into it, but then thought what happens if, when the joint is screwed tight, the faucet is not positioned correctly.

[wiltat2]

Screw it on and mark it, take it off, solder it and then screw it back on.

[DocHeb]

The frost free faucets I've used have threaded outsides, but the ID of the threaded end is sized for copper pipe to slide in and be sweated in place. Don't forget to disassemble the faucet so the rubber washer is removed when you sweat it in place. If you really wanted to use the threaded portion, you could use the coupler you have, and sweat it to a union. A union lets you disconnect copper fittings.

As to the "hogged out" hole - I'd make an aluminum or stainless steel escutcheon, and mount the faucet to that, and then mount the escutcheon to the wall. Use caulk under the escutcheon to prevent water and insects from getting in.

They also make dual frost free faucets that can be used for hot or cold water - nice for those cold days when you want to wash that tractor!

[Stoneheartfarm]

Mike,

Check around the cement department at some place like Lowes or Depot. I thought you could get cement repair stuff in a caulk tube. Simply clip the end and fill the hogged out hole.

Steve

[GaryM]

Get a pice of PVC that the inside part of the faucet will fit through, and will also fit into the hoged out area. Put the PVC in place and backfill with cement or morter. When it sets you'll have a clean hole and a place to fasten the faucet's "ears".

[Chillimau]

Gary,

That's the best suggestion yet. I like that.

[GaryM]

Thanks,

DocHerb's idea is one I've used myself. It's not quite as neat looking as the PVC sleeve though.

[MikePA]

Thanks for all the ideas! [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] The hole is more hogged out on the inside of the wall than the outside, IOW, the faucet can't pull through the wall. From the outside, the faucet almost covers the the hole, so it doesn't look bad, just no place to anchor it. I think I'll go with the mortar or caulk.

Thanks also for mentioning that 1/2" copper pipe slips right in the end. I saw the threads and assumed I had to use a threaded transition. Duh!

BTW, I tried taking the faucet apart and could not get the 'guts' out of it. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img] Even using two, ten inch wrenches I could not budge the nut (see attached). Any ideas?