Use two hammers, one as a backup and gently tap on the conection flats. Put one wrench in position and lay it all on some hard ground. Place the other wrench so that you have a scissors effect with the wrenches. Place one boot on the top wrench and apply pressure. Be careful your foot doesn't slip as it pains some when the rench hits your shin.
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BTW, I tried taking the faucet apart and could not get the 'guts' out of it. Even using two, ten inch wrenches I could not budge the nut (see attached). Any ideas?
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The brands I've used are different than yours, so I can't give specific advice. I did pull a new Mansfield from the box, and the instructions just said "if this unit is soldered in place, make sure valve is all the way open before heating". You could probably get by with just opening the valve, and heating the coupling with just enough heat to melt the solder.
<font color="blue"> "if this unit is soldered in place, make sure valve is all the way open before heating" </font color>
This is what I ended up doing, plus I wrapped a wet rag close to the solder joint. New faucet is in, still have to buy some cement caulk or mortar to finish the job. I also used MAPP gas for the first time, after years of using propane. Quite a difference, took much less time to heat the joint.
If you can get to the hole from the inside and all you want to do is fill it, you can probably do so with some ordinary patching mortar. Just mix it thick so it will stay in place better and you might need to put something against the inside of the filled hole to keep the mortar from leaking back out.
The outside portion of the hole was almost covered by the mounting flange of the faucet and I managed to get one screw into the block to attach it. So, I just needed to apply a bead of caulk around the hole and smoothed it out with my finger.
The inside portion of the hole was bigger and I squeezed the rest of the caulking tube [img]/forums/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] into the hole, used a wet putty knife to 'force' the caulk into all the nooks and crannies, then smoothed it level with the surface of the block. All this is inside a crawl space, so no one will see it, but I know it's there. The plumber who installed the last faucet just left the caulk dripping out of the hole. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img] Installed pipe insulation and I'm all done. [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
Thanks Mike. I've always seen it, but never used it. I'm wondering how it would work on some cracked stucco. Guess I might have to buy a tube and give it a try. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]
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