12-2 wire with black, red, ground? help with 220V

[hazmat]

Didn't find any 12-2 with black, red ground at the home center.

Wiring a few 220V, 20AMP outlets for the workshop - dust collector, compressor (smaller craftsman- hopefully I can convert it from 110V - will check manual). table saw, etc.

Dust collector and compressor will get dedicated circuits. Will run two additional circuits each to 2-3 outlets in the shop for table saw etc.

None of the equipment requires a 4 prong plug, so doesn't seem worthwhile to run the 12-3 wire. I won't be running any 110V outlets on these circuits. Am I wrong?

Can I get 12-2 in black/red/ground? Is it OK to use red electrical tape on the white wire to indicate that it is hot?

Should I use the 12-3 and terminate the white wire (wire nut?)

Thanks for the help.

[beenthere]

Whereas 12-2 will (can be made to) work for 220, it won't be code (IMO). There are probably reasons that you can't find 12-2 with just black and red wires. Used to be the way things were wired (out on the farm), but more concern for someone's safety who doesn't "know" that the two-wire cable is really 220, and not 110. A bandaid by wrapping the white wire with red tape might be a clue, but still not up to code (the way I read it). [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

Now, I'd suggest you find the national code for wiring and plan your circuits around that, or get an electrician involved. The white wire is to be in the circuit. The ground wire (bare) is to ground the equipment framework. Seems there are some things about wiring that you are missing (sorry to be so blunt) [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img] . Good luck and be safe.

[hazmat]

<font color="blue"> Seems there are some things about wiring that you are missing (sorry to be so blunt) </font color>

You're right, I am missing some things. [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] Don't worry about being blunt.

I understand the basics of electricity from physics and Electical Engineering 101, but I don't have a copy of the code (yet). I have reserved my copy of the 2005 code from the NFPA web site, but it doesn't ship till Sept 30th.

Maybe I'm stubborn &amp; cheap, but I think I'm smart enough to do the job myself - if armed with the proper info.

Kind of bugs me that these codes aren't "open source". Ie you have to pay $$ to get a copy. If the NFPA really wanted to save lives, it would be free to download on the net.

That said, my safety &amp; my family's safety is worth the $60.

[beenthere]

I thought there were copies available that were in the $5-10 range, at least the basics.

I have heard (from my building inspector) that electric range wire is now required to be 4 wire (black, red, white, ground) and four prong plugs. I think they just keep changing the code to let everyone know that they are still 'working' and earning their keep.

[Inspector507]

Hazmat,
I'm not aware of any 12-2 with a black, red and ground. You can pay the extra bucks for 12-3 w/ground and not use the white if you want.....OR......the NEC® does allow you to use the 12-2 as long as you re-identify the white wire as a current carrying conductor. That means you cover the white wire at any termination point (panel and outlet box/junction box) with black or red or blue tape or paint. Any color except green and white/gray.

[Inspector507]

Beenthere,
Yes they did change that section of the code some time ago. Why they did it was for safety. What you essentially were doing before was grounding the range/dryer with the neutral conductor which is not too safe. You've had to use 4 wire in mobile homes for years and years, but they finally got smart enough to require it everywhere now.

[hazmat]

But the 4 wire isn't required for power tools? - they don't have a nuetral.

[Inspector507]

A straight 220-240V tool will not need a neutral.
Actually, I have never seen one in the average homeowners shop that does require a 4th wire. They may be out there though.

[DocHeb]

I wouldn't spend the money to buy the actual code book. It has too much information, and is so technical that it will be of limited use.

I would suggest an aftermarket book that does some interpretation and illustration, such as Code Check or Illustrated Guide to the National Electric Code.