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Thread: 99 cutlass

  1. #1
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    99 cutlass

    I got a 1999 cutlass with a mystry water leak! it has a 3100 l motor(I think)! Over the last few months I've had it in the shop for the water leak! It's not that bad but about ever 300/400 miles I have to fill the radiator reservior up! I had reservior changed, water pump changed, whole system pressure tested and mechanic can't seem to find lead and I can't find water when I look either! Does anyone know of a good website that deals with car repairs!

  2. #2
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    Re: 99 cutlass

    Those are known for lower intake manifold gasket leaks. The manifold itself might even be corroded. Has it been pressure tested? The reason I ask is becouse I know a couple of so called "mechanics" that will not spend the money on a good pressure tester. If you go to this site,http://flatratetech.com/, which is a Ford tech site [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img] and go to the forums, you'll find a GM forum that has a few GM dealer techs posting. They can also run your VIN and see if there is any TSBs or recalls.

    http://www.girardgibbs.com/dexcool.html

  3. #3
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    Re: 99 cutlass

    I tell YOU, Bgott, U have been a barrel of info to me! Thanks again for help! roho

  4. #4
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    Re: 99 cutlass

    The water has to go somewhere and there are only about 3 choices: 1. leak out into the atmosphere, 2. leak into the oil, 3. leak into the intake manifold. You can get some fluorescent dye to put into the radiator which will make finding a small leak a lot easier.

    If for some reason the leak is only at operating temperature and the pressure test is done cold or at least well below full temp, the pressure test may not show the leak. If you add the fluorescent dye and drive the car normally until you experience a noticed coolant loss, even a small leak will show up under a UV inspection light.

    If the coolant is being sucked into the intake manifold then it will probably not be detected by the dye/UV method but if you do use dye/UV and can't find it anywhere else, then the intake manifold is a much more likely suspect.

    What would it cost to R&R your manifold and replace the gasket?


    [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

  5. #5
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    Re: 99 cutlass

    Several of GM's narrow V V-6 engines had chronic problems with intake manifold to cylinder head gasket failures. Due to the unusual position of the intake to head interface INSIDE the valve cover (as opposed to the more common position just above the valve cover) a failure of this gasket will not be visible by external inspection. More importantly, the coolant leaking from the failed gasket will drain into the oil pan, and since oil is lighter than coolant, will collect at the bottom of the oil pan. This displaces the oil near the oil pump pickup causing coolant, not oil, to be pumped to the main and rod bearings often resulting in substantial damage - usually the first symptom of which is low oil pressure.

    I would STRONGLY recomend carefully examining the oil for ANY signs of coolant contamination. Excessive condensation in the crankcase and milky appearing oil are common signs. Another test is to carefully remove the drain plug just enough to allow a slight flow from the pan. If the first thing you see is coolant or water you have an internal leak.

    Replacemnt of the intake gasket may be sufficient, but I'd also suggest having the oil pressure tested. Later engines like yours use a gerotor type pump located in the front cover which is much more able to compensate for a loose lower end than earlier rotor type pumps.

    Gregg
    Remember - If I sound like I know nothing about farming it's because I really don't!

  6. #6
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    Re: 99 cutlass

    WoW, Thanks Pat & AutoTech too! That gives me more to ponder! Will check/inspect oil 2day if it don't rain all day! She had relpaced gasket(headgasket I think) about 2 yrs ago and hadn't had lots of problems till lately! Where do U get that dye and what kind of UV lite is it! Can typical shadetree mechanic afford light!

  7. #7
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    Re: 99 cutlass

    The dye should be available from any large and fully stocked autoparts store that caters to professionals. Good luck in finding one of those. J.C. Whitney used to sell it through their catalog. They had fluorescent dyes for crankcase oil, tranny fluid, coolant, etc.

    You can get an ultra violet lamp at Lowes, Home Depot, or similar. They are often shelved near the standard fluorescent tubes. These are the "black light" that makes your teeth and T-shirt glow in the "dark." They will work in a standard fluorescent fixture. I suppose you could go to a druggist and try to buy fluorescein (sp?) it is a fluorescent dye that optometrists and opthamologists put in your eye. You don't want the solution the doscors use. You want the full strength powder.

    http://www.tracerline.com/wheretobuy_search.html

    The follks above sell all sorts of fluorescent dyes for automotive trouble shooting. The URL I gave is for their dealer locator.

    [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

  8. #8
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    Re: 99 cutlass

    They stock different dyes at the Carquest on Market St. in Houston. Being that they have it there I would call your closest Carquest and, if they don't stock it, see if they will order it.

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