Chuck,
You could get one that has a 100A in it if you want. You just need it to be a disconnecting means and not overcurrent protection. Just make sure the right size breaker is put in the house to protect everything. I would go with the Main Lug and get the 50A if it was me.
[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] I just don't know what to say Inspector except that the manufacturers of household grade electrical panels are not intending them to be used as "distribution gear". Yes, I realize that you can stab a 100 AMP breaker anywhere onto the bus, but that is not actually what was intended. [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] I try to never use a main panel that has a plug-in breaker to put the current ONTO the bus because I am looking for a much bigger "footprint" to transfer the current without making heat. A bolt-in main is so much more secure and the Infrared Camera usually shows me that it is. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Yes, some electric ranges do pull high current off of just two bites, [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] but the theory is that the householder will not use every burner on that stove very often. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] A customer called me to check out a small three-phase panel in their maintenance shop and what I found was that they had crap-canned their TWO very worn out SMALL air compressors and went to ONE NEW BIG ONE. They were pulling off a 40-AMP breaker and a 20-AMP breaker originally, whereas the new compressor was a single 60-AMP breaker. Of course the bus system could not deliver that kind of current with just three bites on the bus where they had SIX BITES previously, so the panel was in the process of burning down. They had to make changes THAT VERY DAY to avoid a work stoppage due to lack of air. It's the same old story......current needs "footprint" in order to transfer from one device to another, and unfortunately, not all bus systems are capable of delivering the PER-BITE current that we would like or really need to have. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
I highly recommend that anyone wishing to do electrical work, spend the small amount of money, and humble thyself, and go talk to your local inspector. There are reasons why they want you to put in a 42" foundation for a new home, and the same for the electrical code. Sure, there are lots of easier and cheaper ways to do things, but you get what you pay for. Contact your inspector, pretend he's your wife, and blindly follow his wishes, no mater how stupid it sounds. Most inspectors are not ego nuts, and will be glad to give you a hand and helpfull information. You will also live a happier and safer life. No, I'm not an ex inspector. But I am an ex electrician.
[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] That's some good advice, JKL. If you look in the code books those little rules were not put there to inconvenience anyone, but to PREVENT BURNDOWNS and PREVENT INJURY. It is truly amazing how casually some folks approach electrical work, and electricians see it every day when they make service calls to homes where: "I get a tickle when I touch the kitchen faucet!" is the complaint. Usually it's some kind of egregious error in the way the electrical system is installed, and it's a miracle that no one had been killed ....yet. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
Thanks for the advice CJDave (and all others) who suggested I run things by a local inspector. I appreciate the concern. Trust me, I want to get it done right, that's why I'm asking so many questions (100's of them) and taking so much time. My background is in electronics, so I understand most of the concepts and I'm not a complete dummy with electricity. I'm mainly just not familiar with all the terminology and codes for home wiring. With advise, to me, this project still seems within the reach of a DIY.
The barn has power right now to run a couple of lights, a small compressor, etc. But it's NOT done right, small 10/2 wire buried about 10" tied into an outside receptacle at the house, sharing a 20A breaker. Better than a 150' extension cord, but still needs to be redone. That's why I'm spending the money to fix it, so I can sleep at night [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] I'm going deeper than needed, using bigger wire than required, using conduit when not required. I probably spent way more on a lot of stuff than I needed to just to make sure it was bigger/better than required.
I have the utility companies coming out to mark their lines this week before I dig. I don't think I'm anywhere near the electric service, we have no gas, sewer, or water lines to worry about. So it's mainly phone and cable TV that I need to dodge. I'll be upset if I cut my cable, don't really care about the TV, but I'd lose my internet connection as well [img]/forums/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] I will be checking into permits and inspections today. If I feel a tickle when I touch the faucet, I'll call for help [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] Actually, that might be a good thing in the shower... might help get me going in the mornings. Just kidding!!!
When you get your trench dug, it doesn't cost much to lay in a 1" electrical PVC pipe in case you want to add phone or security wires in the future. Just a thought.
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