220 V rewiring

[GaryM]

Back with another question.

I have a 220V 50A receptacle in my garage. I'm planning on replacing it with a subpanel so I can keep the 50A 220v and also get some 110V 20A and 110V 50A for my friends RV if he comes to visit.

I know that I can't use all the stuff at the same time, just as I can't draw 15A from each receptacle on a lighting circuit.

The CH subpanel they sold me has only one bar for connecting ground and neutral wires. They said to use the same bar for both. [img]/forums/images/icons/ooo.gif[/img] Is that correct procedure? The entrance panels have two bars, one for ground wires and one for neutrals.

This subpanel is being fed with #6 red/black/white, and bare ground.

Just looking for reasurance I guess. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

[Inspector507]

Gary,
The ground bar is an accessory that you need to buy and add to it. Do not install the green bonding screw that is usually included in the box for the sub-panel.
The neutral bar should be isolated from the cabinet as it comes out of the box and needs to remain that way. <font color="blue"> They said to use the same bar for both </font color> ..........I'm taking it "they" were the box store "expert".
I will not caution you on all the other circuits that you are planning on connecting, as you already know you can't use them all at one time.
If you need help connecting the wires let me know, but I think you know what you're doing.

Jerry

[GaryM]

Inspector,

The "expert" is the counter guy at the local Butler Supply. I did buy the extra grounding bar and installed it directly to the case of the subpanel.

In the attached photo you can see the results of this evenings work. The red and black #6 wires to the bus bars. The white to the INSULATED neutral bar, and the bare ground wire to the bar mounted to the case of the sub panel.

I probably shouldn't believe them when they said I could surface mount the #6 3 wire with ground and not enclose it in EMT. I said I thought it needed mechanical protection? "Not unless it's in a commercial application", was the response.

I think I'll use the EMT.

[Inspector507]

It only needs protection if subject to physical damage. It is permissible, per the NEC®, to run it under the joists in a basement if you want to.
The install looks good so far.

[GaryM]

I know that part. But as this will be running along a finished surface in the garage, and subject to possible damage, I'm going to enclose it in EMT.

On a related subject, check out the Levitton 20A receptacle and 20A Feit Electric extension cord I bought at HD. See any problems here? [img]/forums/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img]

[Inspector507]

Nope, no problems there........

[GaryM]

Stopped by HD on the way home this afternoon. Turns out that the extension cord is a 20A 250V cord. And they don't have any 20A 110V cords. They also don't carry any 20A 250V receptacles either. So if you had an appliance that required 20A at 250V, you can get the extension cord, but have no place to plug it in. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img]

[Inspector507]

Gary,
You're right, I didn't even notice the prong configuration [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

[GaryM]

When you said you didn't see a problem, I thought you were pulling my leg! [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

Anyway, now I need to find, or make, a 20A extension cord about 10' or so.

[Inspector507]

The box stores, or at least Butler Supply, should have 20A cord caps and cord.