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Thread: First Time PHD Use

  1. #1
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    First Time PHD Use

    I borrowed a PHD from a fellow at work as we needed 10 holes to install mailbox posts in my subdivision.

    The fellow who had used it previously bent the shearbolt, so we couldn't get the 12" auger off. That made it fun to hook up. [img]/forums/images/icons/mad.gif[/img]

    Once hooked up it worked fine on my JD4100. In decent soil I was able to get down 2' in just a few moments. Made everyone in the subdivision happy that they didn't have to dig their own holes.

    I had read all the safety posts on TBN, so knew enough to keep evryone back and out of danger. Also knew to run at an idle speed and lift the auger once in a while to keep it from screwing it self into the ground.

    After the job was done I was able to get the damaged 1/2" bolt out and replace it with a new one. I also made and welded a bracket to the arm so the owner can hang it in a tree for storage. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

    I try and return things in better shape than they were when I borrowed them.
    Gary
    ----------------------------------------------
    Hey! Aren't you supposed to be working?

  2. #2
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    Re: First Time PHD Use

    Nice job, well done.

  3. #3
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    Re: First Time PHD Use

    Good show Gary.

    Egon

  4. #4
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    Re: First Time PHD Use

    Good show Gary.

    PS: I have numerous items you could borrow!!

    Egon

  5. #5
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    Re: First Time PHD Use

    Egon,

    I am looking for an AC/DC stick welder...maybe the next time I come though Nova Scotia.....? [img]/forums/images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
    Gary
    ----------------------------------------------
    Hey! Aren't you supposed to be working?

  6. #6
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    Re: First Time PHD Use

    Gary, I bought a Lincoln AC/DC welder over 10 years ago and have never had the smallest difficulty with its operaton. It is the 240 volt 50 amp input model. I think it is 125A DC +/- and 235A A/C.

    One of the few possible complaints I could lodge against it is that the wheel kit is a tad under sized and not nearly as robust as the welder. Since this is a HEAVY item, I dedicated a hand truck to it. It is heavy eough to be a real pain in the back to lift it into a pickup. So... I use a ramp or a chain hoist and then back under it. My portable generator will not run it to capacity but allows low power operation. Lincoln has been buillding this model for ages and they should be "findable" if you are in the used market. The big box discount stores often stock them.

    These are so far superior to the Brand X boxes that comparison is virtually absurd.

    [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

  7. #7
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    Re: First Time PHD Use

    Pat,

    I had been looking at a Sears AC/DC unit a year or so back, but a look at the latest tool catalog finds that model missing. It had specs similar to what you mentioned. Don't know who made the units for them, but Emerson used to make a lot of their saws and such.

    Now their brand is Firepower [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img] and I don't know who makes it. They do have the Lincoln AC/DC unit for about the same price. By the time I'm ready to buy who knows what they'll have. A homeowner like myself can't justify a pro grade welder, such as a Miller, for occasional use.
    Gary
    ----------------------------------------------
    Hey! Aren't you supposed to be working?

  8. #8
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    Re: First Time PHD Use

    Gary, Lincoln and others make models that equal or exceed Miller in "PRO QUALITY" sometimes... Lincoln and Miller usually have comparable models. Both make light duty, hobby kinda stuff as well as more powerful, fully featured, and robust equipment. I know of no reason to select one brand over the other (Lincoln, Miller, Hobart,...) unless it would be a discount for a particular model that met my requirements

    Being an electronics enabled guy you know that the plain transformer type welders are pretty simple devices. Does it have enough core, heavy enough wires, and mechanically and electrically robust switching arrangements?

    We can safely assume all the top makers know how to do the magnetics (coupling-saturation-etc) to get the arc characteristics desired. That said, among the major makers you should be selecting based on controls and such not the color. Of course all of this assumes the old fashioned transformer type , the simple AC-DC "buzz boxes." The high freq inverter type arre a different story.

    Out of curiosity, why do you want a buzz box instead of a MIG. I have both because I got the buzz box years ahead of the MIG. If I had it to do over knowing what I know now I would buy a more powerful MIG and skip the buzz box but it is what I have so it is what I use i the upper current ranges.

    Years ago during one of my free lance consultant periods I got hooked up with a small startup that was developing a battery operated portable welder. After I redesigned it the weight was a bit under 25 lbs (without batteries.) It was sort of a DC + or - unit. Welding current was varied electronically by changing the duty cycle of the output pulses. I ran it at about 2000 pulses per second or so and varied the pulse width which changes the average power/voltage but not the peak. Open circuit voltage (a big factor in how easily you can strike/maintain an arc) stayed about the same, pretty high. It welded rusty metal and chromed car bumpers easily but was exceedingly poor with aluminum which was a market limiting issue. With a series switch made of 20 paralleled darlington pairs it made a good TIG unit that woild turn down so low you could repait foil or turn it up and melt heavy tungsten tips.

    Unfortunately the money dudes and the working partner (who hired me) had a falling out over who was going to get rich first and fastest.

    Due to the proximity of Memorial Day... I will mention that our welding consultant was a wheelchair bound paraplegic Viet Nam War vet who was truly a Rembrandt among welders, especially with a TIG.

    [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

  9. #9
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    Re: First Time PHD Use

    Pat,

    I have a 100A wirefeed welder. Uses gas, which I usually do, or flux cored wire. Works OK, but if I wanted to weld thicker material, or use cutting rods or hardfacing, I can't do it.

    Also a heavy duty unit allows the use of a carbon arc torch for brazing and heating.
    Gary
    ----------------------------------------------
    Hey! Aren't you supposed to be working?

  10. #10
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    Re: First Time PHD Use

    Gary, OK... I have the carbon arc accessory and a box of rods but have never used them, so far, but maybe some day. When I mentioned having a MIG to replace my smaller MIG and the AC-DC stick box, it would of couirse have to be seriously more powerful than my Lincoln "Weld Pak 100." I have the gas control solenoid etc for my MIG but so far haven't bought the bottle, I just use flux core. As I hope to expand my capabilities to include MIG with stainless and aluminum wire feed I will be adding a bottle or two to my collection of welding stuff. I have never sucessfully TIG welded aluminum (I did try using the prototype unit I worked on) but did manage to repair a broken cast aluminum table with flux coated rods. I used scraps from making aluminum window screen frames as extra filler material. To be fair, my failure to do a good TIG weld of aluminum was no fault of the equipment, just my lack of proper technique.

    Do you TIG anything but steel? I'm realy looking forward to being able to do aluminum.

    I have to design, build, and install the railing for my back porch. I have reduced the choices down to steel or aluminum. Steel may present a maint problem. I have had lots of ornamental iron work before and it will eventualy present a maint problem with rust. ON the other hand aluminum wil present some challenge as I will have to learn to MIG aluminum to be a success. Then there is the issue of attaching the aluminum railing to the steel support structure under the porch, electrolysis and such and plastic insulators and stainless spacers to go between the steel and aluminum.

    I suppose if I build it to be installed in sections as opposed to one piece or "in place" I might be able to have it galvanized or powder coated or... I found only one place that has the capability to powder coat within 40+ miles of here and they would consider it a "favor" aren't too interested since they only coat there own product. I guess I could explore the powder coat fusing technique that uses radiant heat instead of an oven to see if it is at all reasonable for a DIY job.

    Oh by the way (totally off topic comment follows) I thought of you when I saw a farm auction flyer listing a commercial 100ft microwave tower to be removed. I was tempted but want either a tower on which I can errect observaton platforms as well as an antenna farm or if to be used only for antennas to be a crankup and or tilt over. I have climbed taller towers and installed antennas but only verticals never a beam with a long boom.

    [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

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