Gary, I like the cartoon but I liked a similar one even better. You are standing at the "you are here" sign and there is a second arrow pointing to a different location with this caption..
And those in the know are over here!
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
"I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"
Ear plugs will greatly reduce the ability to hear! [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
Egon
We are on our second Paloma tankless water heater. The first one lasted 22 years. Am pleased with it - other than the thermal couple, have not had problems. And a constant supply of hot water. Ours runs on LP, same as the furnace and stove. The old unit had problems with our lower water pressure, but this new one delivers beautifully. Sometimes, it is hard to leave the shower though.
I'm also looking into purchasing a LPG tankless water heater. Based on the fuel savings and a current 300 dollar Government Energy Tax Credit, I don't feel that you can go wrong. We have a 50 gallon electric for the two of us (empty nester's) and it's not very efficient and an albatross on our REMC bill. Any other experience with brands, possible pitfalls etc, out side installation vs inside.
4sarge, If the electric is still in decent shape you could superinsulate it for a lot less than the cost of a tankless to replace it. Standby losses are the what you are dealing with that increases your electric consumption and what you are elliminating with the tankless heater. If you put plenty of good insulation around the electric tank and insulate the hot water pipe you will lower your standby losses considereably and at a huge savings over installing a tankless.
If your mind is made up and you don't want to be confused by the facts, just ignore the above and buy the tankless of your dreams. Hopefully you have soft water. as the heat exchanger in a tankless doesn't want to be mineralized and is not someting you can casually R&R like the electric heating elements in an electric tank.
If for some reason you decide to keep the electric for a while, pull the elements and inspect them. They may need cleaning to restore performance.
Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
"I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"
The current electric water heater is a piece of cr*p. It was a freebie given to the original owner by the REMC for a new electrical install. I will take your advice and wrap it - it's an odd size so the kits don't work. I'm thinking of using roll insulation, plastic & duct tape. I've already done the pipes, hot & cold to protect from freezing - just in case - I'm in the boonies - lights can out for extended times. I was trying to take advantage of the current 300 dollar energy rebate and yes, the water is softened.
Thanks
4sarge, I can appreciate the power outage thing being pretty rural and subject to various outages. Our worst outages are usually the results of ice storms. Sounds like you have the insulation plan handled. If/when the heater goes out, yoiu can reuse most of the materials on the next one.
An advantage of the tank type versus the tankless is that the tank full of hot water, when well insulated, will stay above freezing for quite a long time if you don't run the hot water at any faucets during a power ouitage. The tankless has so little storage, by design just a little in the heat exchanger, that it will freeze and suffer damage quite quickly in below freezing temps if there is no power. This assumes electric but there are problems with the gas fired units as well. If you went propane fired and the heater was in a below freezing ambient temp BUT no hot water was drawn then the heater might still freeze and be damaged. I'd have to check to see if any of the manufacturers cause the units to cycle just a bit to avoid freezing. If so, then the propane unit would be safe where you are. Up in the frozen north (northern North Dakota for example) it can get so cold that the vapor pressure of propane goes to zero or so low that a tank will not supply gas through a regulator to the house.
Pat.
"I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"
vapor pressure of propane goes to zero
<font color="blue"> </font color> That's when it's time to build a wood fire under the tank Pat. vapor pressure of propane goes to zero
Egon, yes I know about building a fire under a propane tank. When it is worse than -40 (C or F, it makes no differencce whatsoever) and the wind is howling at 40 gusting to 80MPH you just run out and flick your Bic. Well Gunga Din, you are a better boy sprout than anyone I met.
Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
"I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"
I have a Takagi tankless hw heater running on LP. It does have a small electric heater on the heat exchanger that is thermostat operated. If you lose power and its well below freezing for a extended period your SOL. I replaced my electric 50 gallon tank. My electric bill went down but my gas bill did go up. I have 4 people taking showers each morning, so it is very nice to know you will have all the hot water you want with a tankless.
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