A different idea for a shop

[Handyman]

I've been thinking about building a shop, 30x40x14

I was thinking about forming and pouring a 6" to 12" high wall around the parimeter (to compinsate for drop in grade) and then filling in compacting and then pouring the floor. Then building the walls on 4' center like you would a house using 2x6x14's

The advantage to this will be...

1, I would have to worry about trucking in fill to level the whole area.
2, cost would not be any more than using 6x6 on 8' centers
3, on 4' centers, this will allow me to use 8' sheet of plywood for interior
4, For all practicle senses, I could build the walls by myself... infact do most all of it alone

What do you think ?

[egon]

Go for it. [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Egon

[CJDave]

[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Where did the 14' come from? Is that a standard stud length or something? [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Also.......are the roof trusses on 4' spacing as well? [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

[Handyman]

Dave... Dave... Dave.... We've chated/responded for a long time and you still forget what I do... [img]/forums/images/icons/smirk.gif[/img]

14' high walls will allow me to have 13' 6" high door opening... I need at least 13' to be able to drive my Western Star truck... Canadian built Semi [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

I don't know about the roof trusses. The shop across the street is a 40x40 and the trusses is on 10' center. They used 2x4 on edge for strength.
I'm not crazy about that. I might go 4' centers with 1x4's for the roof.

[CJDave]

[img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img] Er.....ah... [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img] ...er It's all coming clear to me now.. [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img] Truck=high clearance=14' walls. [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] You aren't one of those "pre-selectors" are you? [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img]

[Handyman]

You aren't one of those "pre-selectors" are you?

Aaaaa.... I'm having a blonde moment here, what are you asking ??? [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img]

[CJDave]

[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Truck mechanics who work on air-shifted transmissions like the Fuller 13-Speeds have always been able to tell who "pre-selects" and who doesn't by how badly worn the shifter forks are. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img] Pre-selectors actuate the air shift before they actually pick up on the throttle so the transmission will shift faster when they finally do pick up their foot. Of course that exerts tremendous pressure on the shifter fork when it is pushing-pushing-pushing on that collar and there is too much gear tooth pressure to allow it to move. When I had the machine shop we had mechanics bring in shifter forks to have them built back up to full size and there was always a lot of attendant cussing about that so-and-so driver who PRE-SELECTS...@##//!!# [img]/forums/images/icons/wink.gif[/img] I always think about that when I am driving my pickup which has a forest of levers on the floor and I don't put pressure on the shifter forks until they are ready to be moved. [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

[johnday]

Handy; I agree completely on the fools and cell phones. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img] The ones that are a real treat are the ones that like to go around you on the suicide and cut you off, or hang by the right trailer corners. I, myself, as well as you could share many stories of stupidity, I'm sure. [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/mad.gif[/img]

Anyway, your barn. I see no reason why you couldn't do what your talking, just make sure your trusses are on 4' centers too, and run purlins across the top chord. I don't know if you have codes where you are, but it should be run past the building dept. if you have one. With the nice 14' tall walls, your going to have quite a bit of lateral loading from wind. I assume your going to use OSB sheathing on the walls? If so, you'll gain alot of lateral support from using that.

Hope I didn't confuse you, sometimes I'm good at that! Feel free to PM me or ask more questions, I do try to help. [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Keep the shiny side up man!! [img]/forums/images/icons/cool.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[roypat2126]

"I've been thinking about building a shop, 30x40x14....."

Gofurit Handy!! If you are at 4' centers for the inside, make outside at least 3" longer to compensate the stud width. When pouring concrete for my 39x51 barn slab they put crashed rock in fiberglass "sandbags" and stacked um around (18" inside the form to build perimeter edge of footer) then filled inside the bags with lose fill. Cover with 6mil plastic moisture barrier as well.
I do a lot of freeway (I24 & I40) driving in our suburban observing the drivers around me, and I commend you (truck drivers) puttin up with the knotheads you mentioned, especially around music city. I like the bumper sticker I saw the other day"Hang up and drive".
I give trucks the right of way, just a driving courtesy I guess, but my experiance tells me to stay out o the way of bigger then me vehicles. I don't try to defy the laws of physics... only one solid can occupy one space at any given time... Anyhow, hope your shop turns out well. (I'm still tryin to get a metal roof on mine....)
rg

[Pat]

roho, my garage is 3 car. the Miracle Steel brand building is 36 by 48 feet with 12 ft wall height. I have a 21 by 48 shed on one side. It is all open span steel truss constructon with "I" beam columns. The center door is 14 ft high and will clear the stack of any legal tractor (13' 6" on interstate). This is 3 bays with 3 doors, each bay is about 12 ft wide. There are no obstructons or interior columns. I did subdivide the building into two 36 by 24 areas. One is the 3 door garage and the other is a shop. I finished the shop end as a two story with 10 ft ceilings on ground floor and 12 in the upstairs. Pt dormers on both sides of the upstairs to gain floorspace and made attic closets to capture back the rest of the floor space where ceiling is too low.

Roof is 12:12 pitch. Roof peak in 30 ft above slab. The garage half is fully open cathedral ceiling as I didn't need any more "upstairs" floor space although a retrofit to add it to upstairs shop would be easy or a mezanine floor for the garage would be doable also. I elected to not use automatic garage door for center door as it would be a tad expensive and not used as much as the shorter doors which I did automate. ON the 14 ft tall door I use a chain pull wench style opener and it is so easy and smooth a pre-schooler can do it.

I also extended the center bay 6 ft into the shop area so the divider wall is not straight but has a bite out of it. The ceiling above that "bump out" is just over 14 feet too. This is just in case I need to ever garage something longer than aouit 24 feet. Cab with big sleeper?

There are pix of all this in the house building section (Oklahoma farm house thread)

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]