A different idea for a shop

[roypat2126]

Hey Pat,
Got to stuff my face and type fast....

"the pallet forks on the FEL"
Does your FEL forks have lateral adjustment? If so under cut 'shoulders' (notch) in the stump about 3 or 4" from top. Come in under the shoulders with the forks for point of lift. Before you cut stump height; with relaxed arm and hand into fist, measure distance from knuckles to floor. This is "total" height for stump/anvil, is best/ comfortable position for your anvil work surface.

I found my anvil at flea market several years back, it's about 220 lbs. cast steel, old, single horn but still good and flat (slight chipped edges) with hardy hole. I mostly use one of the many hammer heads (2 1/2lb) my Dad made when he was blacksmithin in his early years (1920s).....bro. has Dad's anvil and other hammers AND his post vice. But I have a 6" mech. bench vise that works good for what I do. I don't do a lot of work on anvil....yet...when I get shop built I plan to get real creative !!!

Gotta roll,
Have a blessed OK day! [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
roy

[Pat]

Roy, The palet forks are an interchangeable replacement for the FEL bucket not an attachment to the bucket. They are OEM Kubota and are fully adjuatable over their width from zero interfork spacing out to the max but there are only a few "calibrated" widths with detents to really secure the forks. MY concern was with CG. If the stump isn't way heavier the thing might be tipsy carried that way. This would be especially so using your measurement methodology since my knuckles drag the ground. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[roypat2126]

using your measurement methodology since my knuckles drag the ground.

HAH!! [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] That's like me. I often use my tail for stability when I stand upright. But I haven't quite mastered the dexterity for peeling bananas with my feet.

Anyhow, that measurement is what the experts tell me is the best working height for the anvil surface. Saves on back strain as well. I've even tried holding the anvil in my lap, with my feet and between my knees and like the ol' one legged ship Capt used to say, there ain't nuttin like a good stump!!!!

MY concern was with CG

You're right, the stump may dry out and become lighter then anvil. With anvil attached securely to stump, you can lift with forks under the anvil horn and heel, let the ol stump "dangle".

My stump is approx 2ft dia (without bark)200+yr red oak and heavier then the anvil...so all I can do to manouver it (without mechanical help) is tilt and roll but nothing more then perhaps 'point' it differently. Might could put it on skids....but the little guys wont stand still long enough. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

Have a blessed day,
roy

[Pat]

Roy, When I get a chance to cut me an anvil stump I will most likely give very serious consideration to your sizing info. Thanks for sharing it with the group. I have even thought of banding the stump with a couple steel bands to ensure it doesn't split apart when it dries and I whack the heck out of it.

But... maybe I'm being excessive and should just use a couple magnets to allign the molecular bonds of the lignin to increase the polarization field strength of the valences... either that or maybe a small pyramid inset into the stump would focus the cosmic energies in an advantageous manner. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Who knows? Maybe if I orient the magnets properly I can use a cheap SOFTwood stump but cause it to be HARDwood by the influence of the properly focused flux of the

M A G N E T S...

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[roypat2126]

banding the stump with a couple steel bands

Hey Pat, Sounds good. We had a couple steel bands play at the jazz festival this year...and many years ago I met George ? , the original steel (drum) designer in the Bahamas. He now incorporates the "circle of fives" in placement of the notes.

You might try to hook up with a wheelwright for banding anvil stand. Or simply use 2x4s glued/ screwed and banded, it doesn't have to be round.

My Dad made a few wood wheels, and I remember him talking about tempering the spokes ends in a forge and dumping the whole wheel in water after fitting the steel tire.

But I am intregued by "the influence of the properly focused flux of the MAGNETS" which could work in your favor if electro-magnets....turn um on when you want a hammer blow, (magnets pull hammer to anvil), turn um off when you want to lift hammer. And you could throw away the tongs as the work-piece would "stick" to the anvil. What a setup!!! Magnetic bands would hold your tools handily at the anvil as well. Might could design a magnetic tap-hammer! [img]/forums/images/icons/smirk.gif[/img]

Have a blessed day, [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
roy