Pat, I was speculating... lol
3lb, yer makin' it worse. Up until a year ago I did this stuff for part of my living. You have messed up the air precharge in your system. You should not have drained the tank. You should not leave a faucet open and then leave because if the water starts flowing, you can fill a septic system fairly quickly and overfill the sink and have water all over the floor before you get back.
Now you're pump is not running constantly, it shuts off and then comes on again. That kills pump motors and spins the electric meter; that raises the electric bill substantially. IF the pump comes on with all water in the house shut off on the main line just past the pressure tank, you have a leak on the well side of the pressure tank. More than likely it will be in the drop pipe in the well but can be underground to the house. The leak could be the check valve in/on the outlet of the pump. But the pump isn't getting all the water it needs. The well could be 'dry' or the inlet is blocked or there is a hole in the plumbing. Or the motor is only seeing 120vac instead of 230 etc..
You aren't going to fix this yourself unless you and a buddy can do electric ohms/amps/continuity checks www.franklinelectric.com and then if needed, pull the pump. If the drop pipe is galvanized, you'll need a derrick truck or pump pulling machine but they are limited to total weight of usually 600 lbs. Galvanized is usually 20' sections with threaded couplers and the weight of the pump; and water if the check valve is not leaking. Galvanized can have a hole in it, so can anything else, or you could have a broken fitting and the pump can be hanging on by a thread. In some cases they fall off the plumbing and break the cable, then you go fishing....
Gary Slusser
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