[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] It looks as if you are inching up to the problem. The gas valve isn't opening when it is energized for some reason, and it could be either dirt or a stickyness that is making it hang up. Those gas valves are not too complicated, so you might just dismantle it and do some house cleaning. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
I think CJDave is right. If it's going through all the steps, including the point the gas valve is commanded to open, then the problem is probably the valve sticking. If proof of flame (either through a thermocouple or flame sensor) isn't made within a few seconds of the gas valve opening, then the whole sequence aborts and you'd probably get a "fail to ignite" or "igniter failure" alarm code.
You're on the right path now. You can try to fix the valve or buy a new one. It shouldn't be too much $.
Should I remove the valve to clean it? I looked the valve over and it looks like there are screwas holding a couple of different covers on. Should I take these covers off of the valve to clean? Also, the screws look like they take an allen wrench, but there is a little thing that sticks up right in the middle of the head of the screw and I can't get the allen wrench in the screw. Any idea what kind of tool I need for the screws?
Finally, the vent pipe for the exhaust goes through the wall to the outside. But the air intake pipe does not go outside. It is just open in our basement. Is this okay. Repairmen we have had work on the furnace in the past never indicated this was wrong or a problem.
I don't know what to tell you on the gas valve, I haven't had one of those apart...but it does sound as if the valve is sticking since it started working when you tapped it.
If you have a gas water heater that is taking combustion air from that same area, if you furnace turns on and draws air from that area and your water heater is lit as well, the furnace could suck fumes down the chimney from the water heater...so I would be very careful of having that open intake in your garage...those furnaces suck a lot of air when they are burning. The advantage of the high efficency furnaces is they suck in cold outside are to use in the burner, then exhaust it outside as opposed to burning your nice warm indoor air and sending it outside. If it were me, I would extend the intake to outside the house as it would be safer and more energy efficent. If you don't extend it, put a carbon monoxide detector down near the water heater ( if you have a gas water heater that is ).
I narrowed it down to the gas valve. But, I ended up calling a repair man. The distributor where I was going to buy the valve said that the gas valve would need to be checked coming through the valve. I thought it was best to have a pro do this since I had no way to test the pressure. Thanks to all of you for your help.
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