tinkerer, I almost forgot... If there is shale available in your area, you can use that for the top layer(s). It may cost a bit more than crushed limestone but it makes a much better pavement. I was put wise to this by my GC and tried it. I was a bit taken aback when the first loads were delivered and the chunks were the size of my fist and some much larger. They rapidly broke down with little pieces falling in the cracks between larger pieces and so on. Now it is all quite fine and solid, nearly as good as black top paving. It withstands rain well and is nearly water proof from falling rain and snow. Of course stability in the presence of water requires the surface of the shale to be at least a couple inches above the surounding grade. Stability when wet, i.e. resistance to rutting when quite wet requires good solid underpining such as you are trying to achieve with geotextile and riprap. I have tight red clay under minie and it only gets a tad soft in a few places when it is wet for a long time. I have some geotextile to put down when I get aroung to repairing/improving a couple areas.
I have both crushed gravel drives and the shale (in front of the new house) and can attest to the superior looks and function of the shale. Near here they used a lot of shale on some county roads. Looked like they were paving with boulders at first but it breaks down super fast to a tightly compacted layer. They then put a layer of "chat" on it and oiled it. Made a good and quite cost effective improvement over the typical gravel over dirt rural road.
[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]